Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

Thanks, that's a good idea!

Anyone else having issues with Powertap P1 pedals connected to a Wahoo Elemnt Bolt (or other Wahoo)?

Getting very strange L/R balance numbers while riding and in the Wahoo app afterwards, but they look fine in TrainingPeaks. e.g. 49.5/50.5 in TP vs. 57/43 on the Wahoo

Got a direct drive trainer now, so selling these almost new Powertap training wheels

Open to any reasonable offers https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/337381/

Quarq flashing green constantly? Assume it's some kind of battery dead indicator but can't find it in their docs.

Firmware issue? Page 6: https://prod.quarq.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/GEN.0000000005113-Rev-B-Quarq-Power-Meter-Basic-Troubleshooting.pdf

Have you updated the firmware recently?

Nope. Just ridden TCR and got a power alert near the finish so assumed it was a low power indicator. Not put a new battery in yet.

selling my power2max if anyones interested here: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/337682/

Looks like the IQ2 pedals are about to start shipping. Should be interesting...

Would not want the version 1, doesn't seem like sufficient testing has been done or sent to the usual testers.

Their only remaining USP could also diminish with SRM announcing mtb pedals coming.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B1-2sgrI_Ua/

(no idea if SRM pedals are any good mind)

Am after a first (for me) but secondhand power meter
Would a stages sram Gxp power meter be compatible with my Shimano crank?
I'm less concerned that is x9 and mine isn't...
Cheers

No, GXP has a different axle - 24/22mm vs 24mm and it won't attach the same way.

@spinnnout much appreciated
Thank you

Quarq hidden bolt, anyone have a spare?
I seem to have got mine stuck on the chainring

considering they recommend you vice the fucker in, I think that's basically the point...

So I need a new one every chainring change?

Wrong thread

If they're the same as the sram hidden bolts then you should be able to knock it out. Just find a rod the right diameter, support the ring from the underside and hammer it out.

That would have been better than the approach I took which was to re-thread the sleeve to push it out only to have to use pliers to separate them again.

I know we've done this before but does anyone know the spec of the old-style, carbon-window, FRONT Powertap hub bearings?

Also the spec for the new G3 rear hub bearings?

Spanks!

G3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVjPtllX4Dg

"15mm ring for the 6802 bearing and with the freehub and the old bearing for the 6902 bear"
"6802-2RS"

Apparently lateral play could be dodgy end caps - anyone know where to get Powertap G3 end caps in the UK?

Try official support at Cyclepowermeters, they may have spare caps from old hubs etc.

I enquired about a spare set of contoured chainring bolts for a Powertap C1 a while back, and they posted them out to me for free. Great service.

I've emailed them. They suggested a hub service but I'm not paying £100 to swap bearings. It'll either work or it won't. The wheel is getting left in Oz anyway so I don't really care so long as it rolls.

https://www.cyclepowermeters.com/powertap/powertap-service-centre/powertap-g3-hub-service.html

609RU apparently for the old SL front hubs. (First hit is Novatec so at least they're wheel related)

Are they the ones that are irritatingly expensive because they are only used in bloody bike wheels?

4 x SKF 6092RSH Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 9x24x7mm £3.60 £14.40
2 x ENDURO 69022RS Rubber Sealed Deep Groove Ball Bearing 15x28x7mm £7.95 £15.90

FFS EDIT: 61802 2RS needed