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  • I am still looking for these Dura Ace 7410 pedals...

  • Forum donation of your choice

  • Thanks @sacredhart for the FD clamp.

    I now need to adjust it all as it is not running smoothly.

    Wheels are 11 speed with a stack of spacers so that might play in the chain alignment with a 7 speed cassette...


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  • I have a set of these pedals I think, shoot me a message so I don't forget to look!

  • @Vince might not make a massive difference butI'm pretty sure the cable is meant to go the other side of the clamp bolt (see the cut out in the fd body)

  • Cheers @fredtc - I'll download the Shimano manual. I think it has two cuts, I never remember which is which...

  • What’s the opinion on 130mm hubs in 126mm old drop outs?

    Do I need to try and do it properly or just shove it in there?

  • 130mm hubs in 126mm old drop outs?

    On steel frames, it mostly works OK. The dérailleur gets slightly toed in, but not by any more than it was probably already toed out 🙂

  • Looking for advice on this project.

    I picked up this 20" fork with the intention of making a homebrew Crust Clydesdale, with a rack mounted on the canti bosses. However this is my first metalwork project and, being a bit of a tit, I've jumped in without planning it properly.
    I'm pretty sure I can achieve the desired effect by raising the crown race, the issue is I'm not sure how to go about doing that. Could I simply weld up a 'stopper' at the correct height, then drop the crown race onto it?
    Equally, if there's a better way of doing it I'd be glad to hear it.

    My local maker space only has welding facilities, not brazing.
    Much appreciated.


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  • Thanks for your reply. It’s a 4130 frame. By mostly ok. Do you mean just force the wheel in there without going about a more controlled bending process?

  • 2mm per side is not enough to worry about.

  • I think you’re gonna need more than one fork

  • Thought so. Was thinking it could end up 4/0 though :-)

  • Quite possibly. I've seen an instructional on YouTube that takes 2 cut donor forks and slaps a tray in between them.
    I'll be giving that a go if this fails. Only slightly invested in these forks, given that I've already bought it. Unfortunately that means buying 2 more forks, as these are alu forks (but steel steerer)

    Edit: somebody linked it above as I was typing

  • By mostly ok. Do you mean just force the wheel in there without going about a more controlled bending process?

    Yeah. It will annoy you every time you have to change the wheel, but unless you have a way to keep the plastic deformation process really well controlled, you're better off staying in the elastic region. Trying to cold set without the right jigs goes wrong more often than it goes right.

  • Ok. Annoyance will occur:-)

  • If it makes you feel more confident about it, some Surly frames have 132.5mm rear spacing to accommodate either 130mm or 135mm hubs.

  • Got the first decals for my Razesa, and I was simply replacing the decals on the track forks, which was Columbus Squadra Corse, which I thought was perhaps track specific tubing (my head translated it as Track Squad) but upon visiting google it appears Squadra Corse is Columbus' aluminium tubing, which these forks most definitely are not (lugged single crown). I thought the stickers were put there by the builder but now it appears like they were put there as decoration. Can anyone confirm?

    I am now wondering whether I should put them on at all. I was looking forward to applying the first decals.

  • my head translated it as Track Squad

    "Race Team" is closer

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

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