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• #124102
I am still looking for these Dura Ace 7410 pedals...
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• #124103
Forum donation of your choice
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• #124104
Thanks @sacredhart for the FD clamp.
I now need to adjust it all as it is not running smoothly.
Wheels are 11 speed with a stack of spacers so that might play in the chain alignment with a 7 speed cassette...
2 Attachments
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• #124105
đź–¤
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• #124106
I have a set of these pedals I think, shoot me a message so I don't forget to look!
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• #124109
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• #124110
What’s the opinion on 130mm hubs in 126mm old drop outs?
Do I need to try and do it properly or just shove it in there?
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• #124111
130mm hubs in 126mm old drop outs?
On steel frames, it mostly works OK. The dérailleur gets slightly toed in, but not by any more than it was probably already toed out 🙂
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• #124112
Looking for advice on this project.
I picked up this 20" fork with the intention of making a homebrew Crust Clydesdale, with a rack mounted on the canti bosses. However this is my first metalwork project and, being a bit of a tit, I've jumped in without planning it properly.
I'm pretty sure I can achieve the desired effect by raising the crown race, the issue is I'm not sure how to go about doing that. Could I simply weld up a 'stopper' at the correct height, then drop the crown race onto it?
Equally, if there's a better way of doing it I'd be glad to hear it.My local maker space only has welding facilities, not brazing.
Much appreciated.
1 Attachment
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• #124113
Thanks for your reply. It’s a 4130 frame. By mostly ok. Do you mean just force the wheel in there without going about a more controlled bending process?
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• #124114
2mm per side is not enough to worry about.
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• #124115
I think you’re gonna need more than one fork
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• #124116
Thought so. Was thinking it could end up 4/0 though :-)
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• #124117
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijfmEkNPAsU
Here's one way to do it?
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• #124118
Quite possibly. I've seen an instructional on YouTube that takes 2 cut donor forks and slaps a tray in between them.
I'll be giving that a go if this fails. Only slightly invested in these forks, given that I've already bought it. Unfortunately that means buying 2 more forks, as these are alu forks (but steel steerer)Edit: somebody linked it above as I was typing
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• #124119
By mostly ok. Do you mean just force the wheel in there without going about a more controlled bending process?
Yeah. It will annoy you every time you have to change the wheel, but unless you have a way to keep the plastic deformation process really well controlled, you're better off staying in the elastic region. Trying to cold set without the right jigs goes wrong more often than it goes right.
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• #124120
Ok. Annoyance will occur:-)
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• #124121
If it makes you feel more confident about it, some Surly frames have 132.5mm rear spacing to accommodate either 130mm or 135mm hubs.
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• #124122
Thanks :-)
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• #124123
Got the first decals for my Razesa, and I was simply replacing the decals on the track forks, which was Columbus Squadra Corse, which I thought was perhaps track specific tubing (my head translated it as Track Squad) but upon visiting google it appears Squadra Corse is Columbus' aluminium tubing, which these forks most definitely are not (lugged single crown). I thought the stickers were put there by the builder but now it appears like they were put there as decoration. Can anyone confirm?
I am now wondering whether I should put them on at all. I was looking forward to applying the first decals.
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• #124124
my head translated it as Track Squad
"Race Team" is closer
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• #124125
How much ?