Any question answered...

Top idea.
I recently received a copy of this as a pressie.
One of the best.

We can't all be as hench as you

What moocher says or rice bowls (brown rice or sub in bulgur or buckwheat) are good in my experience also.

Eat slowly

lol

Is it possible to paint an MDF staircase with something that will be hard-wearing enough for the paint not to rub straight off (usually a shoes off household mind, esp upstairs) but also not super slippy? Cheers

Floor paint?

Awww shit, of course. Good call

I love this thread.

A bit of questioning this morning.
I have a set of Tektro CL740 installed on my gf's bike associated with Tektro R539 calipers.
Previously I used these levers on my own bike with Shimano 105 calipers also.

Did not notice anything odd at all ; however planning on changing the brakes on a family bike, I was looking at these levers because I like their look and feel, and came across something odd:

• On the french website that I bought from those I have, they are advertised as caliper/canti levers
  
• on bike24, they are advertised as V-brake levers
  
• on Tektro website, they are advertised as "linear pull brake levers" (i.e. V-brakes if I am correct)
  
• on the same Tektro website page, the installation instruction linked is for caliper or canti brake lever
  
  

Since I already installed them and they seem to work fine with calipers, I do not have any problem in using them again, just wondered what was going on and also wanted to satisfy my curiosity.
Anyone came across these types of case?

Bed liner for the high wear part?

Looks like they're the MTB version for regular v-brakes. The road version for cantis/calipers/mini-v is the FL740: https://www.tektro.com/products.php?p=73 Both pages on the tektro site link to the same instruction manual but that's probably a mistake on the CL740 page. The instruction manual references the FL740 and the pictures show the quick release thing on the lever.

Also a good idea - will investigate

Cheers

Practically new wheels - does this freehub body just need (with the help of a rubber mallet) persuading to snap back in?
One pic showing gap other showing it correctly sat

2 Attachments

Anybody sent a frame and forks to Sweden?
Parcel Force is telling me £100

Try parcelmonkey. Sent via ParcelForce through them for about 30% of the price of booking with Parcelforce direct (not a frameset but same may apply)

That is what I also suspect, what was making me think is that I thought V-brake levers were not supposed to work with caliper brakes (which is then the current set-up on my gf bike and which is working totally fine). Nevermind, thanks for pointing towards the FL740!

Also ParcelForce always have a 10-14% voucher code floating around on the net.

What are the diameters of the package you're putting in? Try parcel 2 go.

beware maximium box dimensions on Parcel2Go though. They don't make it very clear what the largest size certain carriers allow

The difference is how much cable they pull. I might be wrong but I think mtb levers pulling road brakes is more likely to work than the other way round since you just reach the bite point of the brakes faster. Using road levers with standard v-brakes theres a risk that the lever wont be able to pull enough cable.

A long-pull lever will pull enough cable, but will lose mechanical advantage at the lever. This isn't a problem for long-pull brakes, as the mechanical advantage is at the caliper.
However, in a short-pull system (i.e. "road" lever and caliper), the mechanical advantage is at the lever. While a short-pull brake will still hit the rim with a long-pull lever, once it gets there the system won't be able to exert as much braking force.

That is what I read indeed, but having used it I can confirm you that it is functioning with what appears to me to be adequate force because I was able to lock the rear wheel anytime and without particular trouble/effort.
That is why I raises the question here because I can't seem to find a correlation between what I read and what I experienced, which is causing my mind some troubles haha

I was able to lock the rear wheel

That's not much of a test. If you can lift the back wheel by applying the front brake, all is well.
The difference in the mechanical advantage of road levers vs. MTB levers is talked up as though it's an insurmountable compatability issue, but it's actually less than the change in mechanical advantage between using a 39-49mm road caliper at the two extremes of its reach.

I thought it would be a good way to illustrate but if it is better that way, I think I could indeed lift the back if I apply the front. Will test.
Anyway, thanks for the answer, indeed it was because it is described as almost nonfunctional that I was a bit surprised!

Just for my personal knowledge:
When using a short reach caliper, it is better to have a "road" cable pull to avoid (in theory) pulling to much cable and bottoming out the lever before applying pressure to the rim correct?
So when using a longer reach caliper, supposedly having more cable pull i.e. an MTB should be better?
It works for the use I have it for but it is just to try and understand