Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

my examples in 559 were pretty close to what Arup used in 571

Yeah, but he was obviously not making any attempt to be aero. Also, old-school midget P3s take 650C, so if that's the best TT/Tri frame you can fit on, no amount of 650B aero development is going to help.

Yeah, but he was obviously not making any attempt to be aero

Which goes back to my original point. If he wasn't making any attempt to be aero, I wonder why his client would ask for 650C.

It was a made to measure frame and this wheel size was the best fit for that frame. My job was merely to build up the wheels and I wasn't really involved in the bike build. The rider herself wouldn't need to consider tyre choices etc. as when the time comes she would simply take it back to the bike builder (Racer Rosa).

Thanks, PM on its way.

Thanks

If I want to end up with a 28-30mm wide tyre what inner rim width would be best'est for handling/everything?

21mm? or wider?

21mm?

19-20 is the safe bet. If you go too far over that at the front your tyre is so opened up compared with what the manufacturer intended that the possibility of running off the edge of the tread mid corner heaves into view. You have a bit more wiggle room at the back because it leans less and oversteer is less likely to break your face.

thanks !

Possibly a stupid idea but has anyone ever tried to de-anodise rims? I’ve found myself with a set of Hed Belgium built up and really want a silver rim for aesthetics, I’m tempted to try with oven cleaner and a polishing wheel on a dremel... 🤷‍♂️

Once you do that won't you have to regularly polish it? Sounds like a make-work project.

I have all the bits ready to lace up a set of wheels, but I won't have a bike to test them with or a tension meter to check I've done enough for a little while. I've read that it's good practice to give them a quick ride and retrue (if needed) while the linseed oil hasn't cured. Should I hold off?

Light sanding and a rattle can?

Do it right and they won't need retruing.

If it's not "boiled" it'll virtually never cure.
But yeah what snotty says.
And then there's this:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/spoke-pitch.html

Possibly, but thought oven cleaner and polishing less hassle, now I’m thinking about it seems like the same amount of faff... other option is to rebuild the hubs onto tb14 or ADHNs but pretty sure I’ll want to slap myself in the future for wasting money/rims/time being a tart...

If anyone wants a truing stand, my one is now going for a bargain £250

Details >>>>>>>

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/ Malcom does plenty of Kinlin stuff, drop him a line.

Edit- didn’t see how old that post was, and looks like Malcolm beat me to it.

Am I going to die if I lace rims with an OSB to symmetrical (fixed) hubs? I think it makes about 1mm difference to spoke length and I have a dishing gauge etc.

I do not believe you will die.

Went onto selling the wheels to @eyebrows who is no longer on the forum, but not because of said wheels!

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/303696

Cheers Vince, will give it a go.

Here’s a perfect example of the argument for ISO sizing: my neighbour has brought me a wheel that is labeled as 24x1.75 - there are two ISO designations for that size, 520 and 521. Anyway, it’s in rough shape and I’m wondering whether it can be saved. Doesn’t seem to have any dents or cracks, just extreme wobblies. Would it be best to start from anew and build up from there or try and straighten without disassembly? Using the original rim, just to be clear.

What are the spokes near the fucked bits telling you? If it's off to the left are the corresponding spokes on the right loose? If so have a go at fixing, if not the rim is fucked, any ERTRO numbers anywhere?

No other numbers, ‘murica yeah?
It swings both ways as it were and I’ve tried playing with it but I’m thinking that a new start with all spokes zeroed and the bare rim “persuaded” a bit might be the way forward.

It belongs to a 12 year old’s bike...

A new wheel would be pretty cheap right?