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  • what's the square meterage per ceiling?

  • One is Circa 15 Square Meter, one is 14 and one is 10.

    Team of 2 guys we've been told.

  • Outdoor taps.

    How? In the back yard. The water is at the front of the house.

  • Or better:
    Which adaptor works on every tap and won't piss off the tap spraying water everyfuckingwhere?

  • Is the artex being removed or just covered over.

    Some artex contains asbestos. Hence higher costs of disposal.

  • Ok, so follow up to my shelving question a little earlier. Does anyone recognise the below? Can't see any branding anywhere, and it's the kind of shelf I'm looking for


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    • IMG_20190724_222355.jpg
  • Back to painting the mdf shelves in the cupboard.

    Do you paint the support batons with the same paint as the wall, or as the shelves?

    Cheers.

    (Its a store cupboard with a door, that I want to look utilitarian, but neat and well build. The shelves are MDF as are the support batons)


    1 Attachment

    • Screenshot_20190725-102540.png
  • No. But would something like this work?

    Also you might want to try "LOUVERED" as a search term.

  • Battons same as walls imo.

    Aside, consider sticking on a strip of softwood thats deeper than the mdf on the front edge , otherwise it might sag if you're putting any kind of weight on it. More resistant to being dented too.

  • Cheers.

    I can't recall off the top of my head what size mdf I used, but I used saginator. As there a going to be 5 half shelves and one whole one, it might be a bit difficult to put an edge on and keep a consistent look.

    The whole thing has taken forever, and I still have no idea when I'll be able to drill the battons into the wall as I can make that much noise in that location in the evenings, and then I take over the childcare to give my OH a break on weekends. Although I think the project may have dragged so long that Mrs Hugo7 is probably willing to look after Hugo7 Jnr for long enough for me to do the drilling.

  • Batons same as shelf, only because you'll be using wood paint on the shelves and wall paint on the walls.

    Also, if you have a router you could round-off the top and bottom of the front of each shelf. Less likely to chip / delaminate and looks more finished.

  • All this talk about chipping has made me prang. So far I've just put a slight chamfer on a the edges with a metal file. Maybe I should go for a rounded profile... it's just so much more work ;(

    I think I'll get it all made up then not drill / fix the shelves down and see how it looks.

  • They'll be fine, just chamfer them with sandpaper on a block.

  • Looks like IKEA to me. Idk, came out about 5-6 years ago?

  • Well done that man, cheers. Its ALGOT. Looks like they don't sell those holey shelves though anymore. Back to the drawing board!

  • I might possibly have some Algot shelves to sell if you can be patient.
    Moving house next week. Had some for ages but not sure at the mo if they’ll be needed at the new place...

  • Mrs Hugo7 is probably willing to look after Hugo7 Jnr for long enough for me to do the drilling.

    How long exactly do you think it will take you to drill a couple holes?

    : ]

  • Thanks bud, but think I've actually found the right ones now on ikea website. In black only you can get ones that have holes/vents in, so will just go with that.

  • +60 holes including raw plugs, measured properly?

    A couple of hours I guess.

  • Well done

    Only recognised them because we had some in our last place. Certainly wasn't any better than elfa shelves. Must have been cheaper though.

  • Depends on what you've got. I put a Y connector on the washing machine feed and drilled through the wall to fit a permanent tap. But if you have no pipes at the back it will be trickier. There are adaptors you can get which screw into your tap (the same way you can screw in different water saving or spray nozzles). They themselves usually come with the necessary adaptors to fit your threading. You could fit one to your bathroom or kitchen tap to accept hozelock type fittings. I'd be inclined to leave it fitted so you don't knacker the threads in your tap. I'll have a look for what I saw the other day.

  • @Chalfie this looks pretty neat to fit and leave in place

    The easiest way to attach a Hosepipe / garden hose to your mixer tap (kitchen, basin, utility or bath). Perfect if you need WARM water outside to wash your pets, boots or car! Includes x1 Tap Aerator (fits: 28mm Male, 24mm Male & 22mm Female Taps), x1 Hose Connector and x1 Hosepipe Adaptor (this product can also be used with a shower hose too!) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ECWRPQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lBSoDbQ3HB3H5

  • Yeah that looks good actually. Thanks!

    I'm not keen to drill through walls at the front, because of a previous experience in rental property where the external tap fucked the wall really. And I'm deffo not having something going through from front to back. That would be hilarity squared.

    Guess it means washing bike out the front.
    It's either that or a Worx hydroshot (which I've heard good things about).

  • I've ballsed up fitting the rawlplugs while fitting one of a handful of shelves, and the shelf started falling out.

    Moderately weighty shelf to drywall... Fixing with a pair of 100x150mm L shape brackets

    (90cm wide x 20cm deep. shelf itself weighs about 5kg (it's a solid wood worktop offcut) and then I'll put crockery on top.)

    It's in the kitchen on an external wall. A few cm of drywall, small gap then brick behind. Gap isn't big enough for spring toggles or similar.
    Suspect I just didn't drill the hole properly in the first place and it was a bit loose. So now have a ~12mm hole for a 10mm plug.

    How to fix up...
    Chemical fixing like this?
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/rawlplug-r-kem-11-styrene-free-polyester-resin-300ml/32863

    Prefer not to start cutting out pieces of the drywall etc for the sake of a few badly drilled holes.

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Home DIY

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