• In the spirit of noob-questions:
    Id be glad having these questions out of my mind... Id really appreciate your advise so I can start on that frame finally

    • How do you orient the tube in terms of mitre-length? miter the tube so that both miters (essp. on DT and TT) have the same length or do you e.g. keep the miter of the DT-HT junction longer due to more stresses?

    -Is there a "minimum" length of the thicker unbutted section of the tube that shouldn't be cut of?

    • Do you face the BB-Shell prior to setting it up in the Jig? So that you can draw confidence in the squareness of the BB-Shell right from the beginning


    Grazie mile!

    1. Lots of tubing will have a shorter and longer butt. These are differentiated as one end of the tube is painted. I can never remember which is which so I always check with a butt checker prior to doing anything. I think as long as you have enough butt on each end (>35/40mm) it is fine. I'm sure you could be clever about more butt where stresses are highest but idk.

    2. Yes 35/40mm afaik

    3. Unless you are using an uber nice anvil jig (or similar) the error associated with the bb shell is (imo) pretty irrelevant. The jig isn't that straight, the frame will move when welding/brazing etc. It's nice to do but probably more important is refining your weld sequence if you want to make sure the frame is as straight as after welding. However if you have the tools you might as well do it... :)

    Might be difficult to face a bb shell without a lathe or something

  • Thanks my man! That was helpful!
    Out of interest: Where do the 35/40mm. come from?

  • From the ones I’ve bought, the BB shells are machined pretty nicely with flat surfaces on the ends. I would be confident in them being fairly square.

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