Custom Paint - Workshop specials.

Massive thanks to @privatepatterson for a sheet of masks and stencils...

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No problem.
Any time.

• Use a credit card to tickle any air bubbles out of the application sheet.
  
• Use low-tack masking tape to mark guides and to help line up your graphics. You can also draw over the application tape with a sharpie if that helps.
  
• Gently heat the masks/stencils down once they're in position - a hairdryer is fine.
  
• Lay down as little product as you can. If the area is covered, leave it... don't add 'one for luck' or 'just to be sure' - too much product means poor adhesion and furry lines/edges.
  
• Use a sharp blade to very carefully lift up the stencils after you've applied the colour (most of us tend to use a Swann Morton No 10 blade on a No 3 handle) - blade marks mean you're bad at painting!
  
• A mild solvent on a clean microfibre cloth will remove any glue residue from the vinyl (look for 'Panel Wipe' or 'Antistatic Degreaser'). It should also take care of any "fallout" or accidental overspray if you're careful.
  
  

Drop me an email if you run into any trouble.

Looking for a RAL code as close to raw Matt titanium, any thoughts?

https://theradavist.com/2019/09/this-fall-forest-themed-bastion-crossroad-is-full-of-details-alwayshandpaint/?no_cache=1

Th^t’s a lovely paintjob.

Yep worthy of a pic

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Gopping

Love that.

Impressive but it looks shit

Reminds of Georges Seurat.

That's true of Bastion in general.

Don't know if good here to ask but I'll go anyway with a question asked since 2005 in the internet:

Haveing stickers under clearcoat, which are lifting / braking (including the clearcoat above) I would need to buy for my Festool Rotex RO90 P1500 and P100o abrasive, to remove the clearcoat, then remove the stickers, spray paint clearcoat, again use abrasive and later polish with lambskin and polish. Is this somehow doable and get a not perfect but OK job done?

Problem is that all the abrasives (each pack of 50), and polish tools for my Rotex would be about £ 130, maybe 150. Or should I leave it and wait and save money, and maybe get a new spray paint – which I wanted to do anyways at some point?

Clearcoat needs to contact the paint in order for the two to chemically bond properly.
Your sticker is a barrier stopping that from happening.

The sticker is held on the bike only by the adhesive backing and the clearcoat isn't fixed to the sticker with anything significant - any minor flexing or contact/knocks will cause this to crack.

If you know what you're doing, it's a perfectly normal process to remove the sticker with abrasives, feather out the area, re-prime, re-paint, re-clear and then polish it to blend the spot repair.

The type of paint products you can/should use will depend on those already used on the original finish... as above, quality chemical bonds need to be achieved and not all paint products can work together, especially on a fully cured finish.

As for the Rotex dilemma?
You don't need to use a Festool sander to remove the original finish.
In fact, I'd steer you away from any power tools for this.
The tubes on your bike are round... the tool face is flat.
Remove the stickers and that area by hand... you also can avoid spending hundreds on the abrasives.

If you're looking to have the current finish removed and a new one applied, drop me a DM and we can see if we can get your frameset into our workshop for a new finish.

Thanks for all that information, exactly what I needed to know!

I thought that because of having a Rotex and a soft pad I could use it also for round tubes. Apparently I only used it for wood so far, and the abrasives are only available in packs of 50 (could stencils other ones though). And there are great tutorial PDFs from Festool for various applications.

I think I couldn't do the whole process for my own, even if I really would like to do so and learn things. Long time ago I painted um ah ... bicycle frames, so I am interested always in varnish and paint in general. PM incoming then!

Pretty amazing paintjob again

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As beautiful as that paintwork is, I can't help but feel it would be more stylish to use that effect in moderation rather than doing a whole frame like that...

I totally agree, a bit like the bastion above. But they are probably not made to be ridden and probably be left on a wall somewhere

Reversed out for the logos and maybe the stem/a band on the top-tube? Would be my choice

I like the frame and fork, but the seatpost and stem was definitely a step too far.

Here is a paint job I did for my GF's MTB last year. Yes, she likes space.

Saddle looks about to fall off...

lovely - any pics of this built ?

Not any good ones i'm afraid, just blurry mid-ride pics :(

New hero entering market...
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10162885352855417&id=526850416

Paint guys: I need a spray gun for ‘bigger than an airbrush’ type applications that will run happily on 3 bar - any recommendations or pointers?