The klunker had a bit of a shimmy, looking down on the toptube, it wasn’t straight with the front tyre when riding in a straight line.
I thought I’d fucked up big time, something that was going to be really difficult to fix so I was kind of just ignoring it, I’d dished the wheel a bit to bodge it but decided to try and do something about it properly the other day.
The seattube and headtube were slightly out of phase, about a degree. Fixed that by mounting a steerer tube from an old fork in a tube block in the vice, removed the stem/bars/fork from the klunker and then slid it onto the steerer in the vice, knee on the crankset pushing, hands pulling on the saddle and tweaked it till it was within a couple tenths of a degree.
Then looked at the rear triangle and realised the back end was kicked over to the nds about 20mm. Bit of scaffolding pole sorted that.
I was nicely surprised by how much effort it took to cold set it.
Cjell Mone had told me on Instagram that he’d built a bike with 110mm spacing but that it didn’t last very long (probably due to lack of bracing angle in the rear end) so I’d been a bit worried about trashing my frame but I’m a bit more confident in it now!
Sorting the alignment handily changed the chainline a bit so I was able to go back to 32:19 with the chainring on the outside of the cranks so I can actually use the adjustment on the ebb without worrying about chainring/chainstays clashes.
The klunker had a bit of a shimmy, looking down on the toptube, it wasn’t straight with the front tyre when riding in a straight line.
I thought I’d fucked up big time, something that was going to be really difficult to fix so I was kind of just ignoring it, I’d dished the wheel a bit to bodge it but decided to try and do something about it properly the other day.
The seattube and headtube were slightly out of phase, about a degree. Fixed that by mounting a steerer tube from an old fork in a tube block in the vice, removed the stem/bars/fork from the klunker and then slid it onto the steerer in the vice, knee on the crankset pushing, hands pulling on the saddle and tweaked it till it was within a couple tenths of a degree.
Then looked at the rear triangle and realised the back end was kicked over to the nds about 20mm. Bit of scaffolding pole sorted that.
I was nicely surprised by how much effort it took to cold set it.
Cjell Mone had told me on Instagram that he’d built a bike with 110mm spacing but that it didn’t last very long (probably due to lack of bracing angle in the rear end) so I’d been a bit worried about trashing my frame but I’m a bit more confident in it now!
Sorting the alignment handily changed the chainline a bit so I was able to go back to 32:19 with the chainring on the outside of the cranks so I can actually use the adjustment on the ebb without worrying about chainring/chainstays clashes.
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