Home DIY

We had that one. Husband reckons you’d be risking fingers to let it down from above. He also pointed out there’s no legal justification for a top-operated loft ladder. Under building regs, loft ladders are ok for storage areas but you pretty much need a staircase for a habitable room. So from the manufacturer’s POV, it’s not an obvious feature to design in.

Could you stretch to an electric one with remote control?

Still no furter with the kitchen as the home owner can't decide what she wants. I've given ideas and been told no.

What to do?

Is there a rush?

For her, yes. I get moaned at as the kitchen isn't finished.

Then she needs to forward some ideas.

#problemsolver

I want to move this small 70" x 30" shed to the end of the garden.

It's currently sitting on a nice concrete slab, with some fixed battons raising it to keep air circulating.

The new location will be on a flower bed on the North side of the garden.

What's a sufficient solution that won't cost too much, take too much time, or require paying someone else?

Could I just Chuck a load of hardcore down for draining and weeds, then put some bricks or grease blocks where the support buttons go?

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This or something similar. Flatten and stamp down earth, lay a weedproof permeable membrane, put plastic grid tiles in place and lock together, fill with gravel if you want. Move shed. Brew tea.

Cheers.

Seems pretty readily available. Possibly a bit more $ than I wanted but should do the job.

Are coach bolts going to be the easiest way to add a bit more security to the doors?

(I realized that something like this can just be kicked in)

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Probably better off with a hasp latch that doesn't show any bolts.

For what it's worth, our kitchen re-do (lite) was based on me putting forward multiple ideas based on what I was capable of and with cost restraints to my wife, who would then shoot them down. This forced me to come up with other and more imaginative options, eventually both of us agreeing on a design that would suit. The whole thing was my idea to begin with, and started with me wanting to move a window about 50cm further in so as to free up enough space to move our fridge off a wall and into a corner. This opened up an entire section of wall for our table. It's an eat-in kitchen, u-shaped with 4 doors at one end, 4x2.5 metres. We ended up with less actual storage space (which was part of my secret aim) but more useful and with more room to move around in and more light (natural and otherwise). 3 years in and we're both very happy with it save the faucet which has now been replaced (for free) 3 times, so much for made in 'murica - although the last one we got is made in China, so maybe this one will be ok. :/

Just to double check my working. 70 inches X 30 inches = ~1.35m² which means I need 22ft² / 2m² of this stuff right?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRIVE-GRIDS-PLASTIC-PARKING-GRID-HEAVY-DUTY-MEMBRANE-ECO-BASE-GRAVEL-GRIDS-nw/192637420339?hash=item2cda15c333:m:mdMHZVGwP0tBBkU8vzKI--A&var=492779995444

Cheers.

Well those tiles appear to be 500mm squares and the base you lay needs to be larger than your shed in both dimensions. Your shed is 70" x 30" which is 1776mm x 762mm so the minimum multiple of 500mm to exceed that is 2000mm x 1000mm of base, which is 4 tiles x 2 tiles i.e., 2m².

So, yes.

I put my shed on those - they work really well. Are they overkill for a little one though - might you be able to get away with removing grass under the footprint then a concrete paver under each corner

TBH that's what I was originally thinking (or some breeze blocks under the batons)...

...But then ffm man-sold me an over engineered solution.

It's destination is currently a "flower" bed. FWIW we have exceptionally heavy clay and the contents will likely be; gas BBQ, gas, some other random shit.

The only reason for double checking solutions is because it's on the northside and will be up against a fence.

I found these which works out as marginally cheaper, but would be collection, so probably not worth it.

I just know Mrs H. response will be, "why are we spending £25 on a shed when we can get some free bricks from somewhere?"

I'm putting up some spur shelving on a plasterboard wall. There will be books on the shelves. Will I be able to get away with using heavy duty plasterboard plugs or should I be screwing the spur uprights into the battens?

Having new windows soon and I need to 'prepare the apertures' - cut back plasterwork and window boards to accept the deeper frames. Gonna replace the window boards wholesale with solid oak so that's not a problem. Biggest head-scratcher is the bathroom, which is tiled into the reveals. Will I be able to cleanly cut these back by the required 30mm using something like a Dremel?

We use a tool called a laminate cutter. It looks like a Dremel with a plastic base to hold it at right angles to the surface that you are cutting.
Specific blades for plastic and ceramic, even glass.

I'd prefer the battens if possible but those heavy duty plasterboard plugs can take a beating! Depends on how your plasterboard is built up. Single layer? 9.5mm/12.5mm/15mm?

I've hung up a small radiator with heavy duty plugs but had the chance to be able to screw into battens on two places.

knocked these up using scaffold boards and keyclamp kit - wife chose the colours...

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Impressed that the boards look so good.

If you don't mind me asking, what was the total cost of the key clamp kit?

It looks great and durable. Wouldn't it have been an advantage to be able to put the benches under the table?

I ran the board over and through my planer/ thicknesser as well as sanded with 'V' joint and dominos...
kit was approx. £250

That would have been a good idea...was all a but rushed to be fair - just wanted something built for summer