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• #177
Look at the Surly Cross Check eg.
That's pretty significant dimpling?
I'd be interested in seeing a picture of yours, I believe it's at the same bend I'm using. The cx bend. Does anything about this look off?
And regarding the taper, I've modeled them as with the centers of both the ovals and the circle on the centreline of the stay, where it would be more accurately modeled with the centres of the ovals slight below (or the centre of the circle slightly above) the centreline.
Upper being how I modelled it and lower being a more accurate version of it, I think it affects some of the mitres so I'll try to rectify this. -
• #178
Yeah I think this is more accurate: (Although mine is convex where the real deal seems to be concave, but shouldn't affect anything.)
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• #179
I'll take a photo for you tomorrow.
And you are right about cross check. Bad example -
• #180
Ace, thanks!
Nova Cycles Supply describe the CX bend stays like this. Assuming this is without dimples light dimpling for 40's would make sense.
"Please see here for the Life Cyclocross SL long taper. Same weight, 3 degrees more angle in the S-Bends for accommodating 35-28mm plus tires, and long taper."
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• #181
Yeah maybe that is true.
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• #182
I need to take a pic of the Eroba more suited for comparing, but this one is pretty close. Slightly taller and slightly longer it seems now but it's hard to say, current geo is loosely based on an Isen All Seaso.
I also have some plans for cable routing and I think they're better than whatever @PhilDAS is going to do.
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• #183
Not likely
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• #184
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• #185
Hadouken!
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• #186
Roughly this is my plan. Fess up, Philip, what’s yours?
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• #187
😂 only my Mum and my girlfriend call me by my full name and only when they’re angry with me.
Yeah I was thinking the same tbh but maybe trying to go back in through the chainstay -
• #188
Cool! Are you going to be welding or brazing?
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• #189
💋
I considered going back into the chainstay but decided it's not worth the hassle.
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• #190
It's going to be welded, not by me though. I'm just clicking away in CAD.
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• #191
Still clicking away, initially wanted a cable to enter on both sides, but it didn't make sense routing wise and this will look cleaner. I might go for the other side if I ever decide to add a front derailleur.
Current plan is a full length 6mm ID 8mm OD tubes for the brake (to allow for hydraulic hose later on) and for the shifter 6mm ID entering and exiting the frame, and 4mmID6mmOD tubes inside them on the straight bit as cable stop to minimize outer cable for smoother shifting. Should also make routing cables less of a pain, at a weight penalty of only 40 grams.
A knee injury and uncertainty about my position on the bike is making me consider a bike fit, it might save me having to replace this later on. Now I write this down I realize I had sworn to not get a new bike before doing a fit, so I guess I'll have to.
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• #192
Having done a bikefit it seems this is what it's going to look like. (Geo borrowed from a Moots Routt45 in 52 with a less sloping top tube.) I feel like a freak.
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• #193
Looks pretty much like my bike but with a much shorter front end. Why no more reach?
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• #194
Weird proportions, I guess. The Eroba has always felt too long at 56cm TT with a 80mm stem, fitter reckons I need 3cm less reach, so here we are.
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• #195
I need to see a photo of you riding this bike
Edit - nm, I get the idea now :-)
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• #196
Is it an odd position? I really don't know what's normal anymore.
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• #197
What a handsome young lady you’ve become
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• #198
You bully!
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• #199
I don't know that there's an 'odd' position. Just what works for you
Yo
With 700c x 40c you should be able to fit a compact chainset on a 68mm bb without any dimpling at that chain stay length. Look at the Surly Cross Check eg.
Something about your chainstay modeling doesn't look right. I think maybe you got the taper wrong??
Columbus Zona S Bend Cx should be dimpled I think. They are already squashed from the factory.
I can take a photo of my most recent frame if you want.