-
What I remember seeing on tv was related to sanding, one type of paint clogs the abrasives more than another or something?
I don’t even know if my mate would be sanding though so you’re right about talking to him if I want to go down that route.
Been looking into the enamel paint thing a bit more though and I may just try and do a permanent job myself.
Found Paragon Paints who have hundreds of colours and the prices are really good. They say their normal colours are good for brush or spray application (they advise spray application for fluorescent colours) and there’s stuff about wet edges and that that makes me think a good result would be achievable with their paint.
I also found Bilt Hamber Electrox primer which is designed for marine use but is popular with car restorers because of its anti corrosion properties. It seems it can protect the metal underneath it even if it gets scratched through to the metal because of the amount of zinc in it.
You are reading a single comment by @MrE and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
M_V
@MrE
I suspect the car 'restoration' presenters are concerned about paint incompatibility - either making an irretrievable mess on TV, or if they are serious about the restoration, generating a possible problem for any future owner.
It used to be easy with old metal things in need of restoration - most paint was either cellulose based (old) or oil based (probably older still) and even if you mistakenly used one type on top of the other there was a 50-50 chance it would still be ok.
Paint made in this century is a different game completely - you probably need to have a detailed conversation with your mate to be sure you don't use anything incompatible with his preferred materials if he's going to re-paint it later. Even then, if you leave it too long there could be changes in formulation that cause problems, as with Finnigans Smoothrite - it used to need a specific solvent (trichloroethylene if memory serves), but now it is environmentally friendly and doesn't work.