Any question answered...

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  • For some fucking retarded reason

    The "fucking retarded reason" is that the larger distance from the wheel centre to the upper pulley centre which is appropriate for big sprockets of 34T+ makes it possible to push the big sprocket inboard of the hub flange a bit further than on a road set up without getting the pulley cage dangerously close to the spokes. Taking advantage of this packaging gain allows MTB hubs to have a little less dish than they would otherwise need if the freehub rotor was made the same width as the 11s road one, so the wheels are stronger.

  • MTB cassettes overhang the 11t cog beyond the end of the freehub

    No, they overhang the big sprocket further past the other end of the freehub. Both MTB and road cassettes already have the little sprocket as close to the dropout as they can.

  • Anyone with experience using the Jack Brown Greens - an endless flatfest or basically ok if you're a relatively light (70kg) and careful rider?

  • Ahh, gotcha. Every days a school day!

  • Is there a difference between cantilever brake pads and v-brake brake pads?

    I think I have some v-brake pads(?). Can I use them on cantilever brakes?

  • So long as they have the correct fitting method (post/nutted) you should be fine.

  • Is there a difference between cantilever brake pads and v-brake brake pads?

    Sometimes. Traditional cantilevers often use road brake sized pad, and shoes to suit. Some cantilevers, on the other hand, make a virtue of using the much longer MTB pads in appropriate shoes. You can't (or at least shouldn't) put MTB pads in road shoes or vice versa, but whether you use road or MTB pad/shoe assemblies in your brakes is a matter of personal preference, as long as they don't hit anything they shouldn't.

  • Thanks both.

    Have a combo of long pads and shoes which fit my brakes, so should be good.

  • I doubt it, but will my 5800 front mech work as a top pull? If not, what’s my best option if I’m moving to a frame where the gear cables are routed along the TT.

  • For some fucking retarded reason

    Fucking retards, being so retardedly retarded, bunch of window licking, spazzy mongs right?

  • Is there a headset for tapered steerer out there that will keep a 100mm headtube < 110mm in stack once fitted? Lower cup would have to be external.

    I’ve seen the cane creak slamset but the bottom cup is 12mm.

  • Crank Bros ones look very low stack but I think they don’t do them any more.

  • That R+S records cycling jersey picture. Where?

  • So I know that for all intents and purposes Shimano and campagnolo 11 speed cassette free hubs are interchangeable. so does this mean that it would be advisable or at least appropriate to use a Shimano wheel Shimano cassette and Shimano chain and possibly Shimano rings with an otherwise full campagnolo groupset? Or would I use campagnolo for everything except the wheels? Thanks in advance

  • Don't worry about the chain, I like kmc are good for the price, match cassette to freehub and whatever ratio you want within the confines of your derailleur, match rings to cranks if necessary or you like matchy.

  • Many thanks; so all campy group components with Shimano cassette/KMC chain and either campy/Shimano rings will work fine?
    Cheers

  • Yeah, although a lot of campag cranks want campag rings, or stuff designed to replace them, same with some shimano ones, and mixing them would be weird.

  • Yeah was thinking FSA with either... Many Thanks

  • Or not FSA, they're generally a bit crap all round.

  • Kk, would be a campagnolo then (unless budget precludes). Thanks again

  • Or not FSA, they're generally a bit crap all round.

    FSA is fine at OEM prices. Their after market price list is only there to make people think they haven't been short changed when they see FSA parts on their OTP bikes

  • Where to recycle old tyre (im next to Burgess park/London bridge/...)

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Any question answered...

Posted by Avatar for carson @carson

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