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First ride on my new Hagon 2810 rear shocks. I’m impressed.
Obviously I have to give two caveats; first, my last ride on the TEC Bike Parts piggy back shocks was effectively only on one shock, as the drive-side one had fallen apart. Second, I have zero real knowledge about how to set up suspension pre-load, dampening, etc. and the TEC Bike Parts shocks were on the bike when I bought it and further dialled in my me. The Hagons were done by the guys there based on my weight (also idk what weight the TEC Bike Parts springs were designed for).
It’s hard to describe any one thing – it’s just that classic “they’re better” feeling. Firm, but not harsh, bumps are smoother – especially speed bumps (really surprised by that), etc. I've not touched a thing either, just put them on straight out the box.
On the handling, although I sort of enjoyed the lazy handling of the short rear, it is better at this height (350mm). Flat-footing is borderline, but close enough, and better than the stock 360mm for 5ft 8' me. I have zero inclination to even think about messing with the font. Well at least until the oil needs changing…
Overall I think they are a good upgrade for the Triumph air-cooled twins. Let’s be honest, it’s an old and heavy bike design with numerous flaws. I’m sure better shocks would still be better yet, and the 2810s are tubby boys, but at ~£200 for a set of British shocks they seem proportional to the bike’s* abilities. So on balance, the right choice. Time will obviously tell how they hold up – especially the chrome.
*and plenty good enough for the rider's too”!
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Yes they’re a good change I had the shrouded version (similar to on the Norton above) on my t100 very nice kit.
I had the sprung version on my gt550, quite a bit of surface rust in the end but I did show that bike no love! -
For sale in Belfast... looks like it might be the best priced/ cleanest I ever have a chance to buy :|
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Might want to take a hose to it sometime...
Should have said this at the time... but a hose over an Italian, I do want it to work! :P
Does anybody have experience with SKF fork seals? Presuming I can find the right set think I'll get them being the tart I am. Also... shut up and take my money etc...
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Spot on mate, the real stiction issues are when the bike is loaded up on the brakes or on it's ear.
My only observation on fork seals, having tried most OEM and el cheapo aftermarket ones is the newer they are, the better. OEM stuff that's been sat on the shelf for a decade can get a bit brittle. -
@jambon - definitely worth noting on your Aprilia dude. I did a set of OEM seals on my mate's 09 Tuono and they lasted less than 6 months. One of the scrapers had completely separated. I remember they felt a bit hard when I put them in. Went with Showa aftermarket ones the next time and they were notably more pliable. Same seals, just not sat on a shelf in Dallas for 10 years.
....just noticed. You have the gold...get them from an ohlins tech, not the Ape dealer.
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Had read similar stories about replacing seals, then 6 months later they're leaking so keen to get it right. Also considering doing it myself so want it to last.
Aprilia dealers, let alone good ones seems hard to find. If I can't find any SKF seals will hit up Aprilia Performance as they're good eggs and haven't let me down yet. Thanks for the confirmation.
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Finally managed to remove my stuck oil filter!
I'll try and add some pics but basically I got the outside of the filter squeaky clean, wrapped it with masking tape until the tool almost wouldn't fit, then rubber malleted the tool on, and prayed. I couldn't find the old car wheel tool I use as an extension, so went bling with an old carbon seat post.
Judicial use of plusgas may have helped too.
One step forward, one step back... I replaced the brake fluid. Unfortunately my braking is worse than it was. It may have been an error to do it on my sloped drive. I've wrapped a band around my brake lever to see if that helps to get rid of some air bubbles.
Any other ideas?
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For me taking the rear caliper off and rotating it so the bleed nipple was higher helped dramatically, to stop the pads touching I just used a thin spanner as a faux brake disk. If it's the front brake I used the bleed nipple on the master cylinder with good results, apologies if you've tried these.
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Any other ideas?
If all else doesn't work, get a cheapo vacuum bleed kit from ebay. Sorted it out for me after a few goes. I don't think you'll have an MC bleed nipple, so just keep topping up and vacuuming out till the system pressurises.
I also did as @jambon said and took the calipers off and jammed a spanner in, as mine are fucking ancient and pistons are a bit temperamental even after a rebuild.
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Cheers. I'll give it another shot once it's dryer.
I've actually got a spare disc so I'll use that as a wedge.
Bike designers are fucking sadists sometimes though. Doing the rear was a pain as the lever and caliper are on different sides. I tried clamping a stick to the pedal, but the casting prevented the clamp from holding.
Another eg is the obstacles around the filter, which I tried to remove to get better access to the filter. these torx took forever to get out as I had to hold a torx bit with an adjustable spanner to access it.
Inspired by the masking tape, to do them up I wrapped tape around the bit and then jammed it into a ratchet spanner. Obvs didn't tighten it probably, but it got it 80% there which saved about 15mins of ¼ turns.
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Have you not just invented a shit socket wrench there?
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