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  • @TW Yeah well I could try that, but it wasn't earth shattering money and I'm still stuck with the slab. I'd rather focus on just figuring out the best way to move forward, it's structurally sound so it won't matter in the end.

    @Dammit Interesting idea with the vertical rebar. I was just going to pour concrete straight onto the slab if I went down that route tbh. Will give it some thought.

    I went out with my string line and its actually not quite as bad as I initially thought, 33mm droop over a 3m length. Enough to bother me but not impossible to manage.

  • 33mm droop over a 3m length.

    I may have missed this, but is the floor going to be the concrete base? I'd assumed you were putting some sort of joists with a wooden floor over the top.

    From a position of no informed knowledge I'm surprised that topping it up over a roughened surface wouldn't work well enough for a shed.

    @mespilus - they do the same thing in Peru to avoid property tax.

  • Jordan too. I'd imagine it's a fairly common practice.

  • It's going to be PIR insulation panels on top of the concrete, then 18mm chipboard T&G, then finally engineered wood flooring.

    I'm sure from a floor perspective I won't notice the sag. I just care about having square walls and a square opening for the bifold doors from an ease of construction POV. If i screw the stud walls down to the concrete base as is it will make it that wall and the connecting side wall trapeziums, and I'm sure later on will lead to annoying issues with sheathing and the internal wall panels, having to cut tapers etc etc. Just a ballache.

    My wife suggested I mirrored my design to put the bifold door on the right where the slab is flat. I think I'll do that, and then do the packer / wedge thing for the left panel, and then maybe I'll use a floor leveling compound to raise it up to the rest after I've done the walls if I can be bothered.

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