• Looks great I love those early Campag rear derailleurs. Play in the BB doesn't sound right though. Without sounding condescending, is the near side BB cone tightened up enough. I'm not sure what make you are using but the old ones always tend to be more awkward than they should be. I always use loose and new quarter inch bearings there not expensive from a good LBS and a ton of grease

  • Cheers! Not condescending at all, welcome all advice! Tried tightening but don't have a tool thing that fits into the four holes in the face of the cup (it's BW cups and a BW No.15 axle) and there's still some thread spare after fitting the lock ring. Might be a trip to the LBS to borrow the 'spanner' thing.

  • The tool you need is known as a'peg spanner'. Naturally there is more than one size - I have what may be described as an 'adjustable' version which is a springy U shaped tool with a peg on each end of the U.

    It's usually possible to do this job with the corner of a flat bladed screw driver, but the cup is probably harder than the screwdriver which may get chipped, and it can be tricky to keep the adjustable cup in place while you tighten the lock ring - but Ive done this successfully in the past.

  • A little worry about Richardshills BB.

    I think you have had this frame resprayed, so presumably it's been shotblasted.

    Have you put a liner around the bearings and spindle? I ask because there is usually some shot blast grit left inside the frame tubes which will, almost inevitably, get ito the bearings and ruin them in no time flat.

    I had this experience, but a long time ago when you could go to any bike shop and buy a new spindle for 25p. so it was just a nuisance, not a major expense.

    There used to be ready made plastic liners for this purpose, but you will be lucky to find one now since sealed bearings have been the norm for such a long time. I recommend improvising with a round plastic bottle and a pair of scissors.

    I've just seen your comment about removing cotter pins. Since you've only just put them in they should come out easily. Support the crank, make sure you hit the pin squarely when using the hammer and don't forget to leave the retaining nut just flush with the top of the cotter pin thread. They should fall out with a single blow.

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