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• #2927
Am yet to test ride it, but if the next update comes from hospital you can come to your own conclusions.
and a few posts later
autopsy
Just how badly did it go? Are we waiting for a Coroner's Enquiry?
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• #2928
More like a forensic examination. Need to work out where the leak was coming from. Am hoping it's quite obvious/straightforward and not something as lame as a porous tyre.
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• #2929
It can be as lame as that of taping or valve. The a23 is what I class a semi tubeless compatible. The rim cannot keep the tyre seated reliably within no air pressure which is useless unless you keep them pumped up.
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• #2930
Yeah, I don’t think daily pumping up is an option I want to persevere with. That said, at least once the sealant has dried, it’s a touch more airtight. Still not ideal though.
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• #2931
Hunt Light Aero wheels and Hutchison 32mm tyres are a dream to set up tubeless. Also seem to roll rather nicely.
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• #2932
Brompton update; Turns out the air escaping wasn't down to my shonky taping. I stanley-knifed any tape that was creeping up the rim so there was no chance it could be preventing a good seal, but still the air seeped out through the tyre bead. So, next course of action is another tyre, maybe a non-folding variety this time (in case that's the problem).
Yeah, CSB. -
• #2933
Potted history of my road tubeless tyre adventures:
DT Swiss R411 rims with Schwalbe Pro 1, the wheel builder set them up for me.
Rear punctured on first ride and would not seal, ended up riding it with a tube (for about a year) until the tyre became deformed from being taken off the rim too many times as it suffered further punctures.
Replaced with a Hutchinson Padrone, that punctured on the first weekend, I tried to glue it but only managed to create a slow puncture and the sidewall of the tyre became porous due to riding it at low pressure. Put a tube in it and carried on fine (no further punctures) until I broke a spoke on the rear wheel so had to take it off anyway (about 9 months later).
By this time the Pro-1 on the front wheel had about 5,000km on it and was weeping sealant but still rode fine and held air well enough.
I binned both tyres and fitted IRC X Guards. They were tight to get on, I needed to use the IRC tyre levers. Would not quite inflate with a track pump but a CO2 cartridge got them seated and they remained seated when i deflated to add sealant through the valve stem. Went out for a quick ride and they feel good. They seem quite narrow for 25c.
If I end up with a tube in the back wheel, I'm going back to regular tyres.
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• #2934
And if you're not using this
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/effetto-caffe-latex-tyre-sealant/rp-prod49699
You should. Much better at filling holes at high pressure. I understand your frustration, but sadly with the whole tubeless thing still being in its relative infancy, it's very much a learning experience for most of us. -
• #2935
Glueless patch on the inside? Will try.
I'm already using Caffe Latex.
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• #2936
Cool.
Yes, I tried everything else. Glue, anchovies etc, but nothing was straightfoward (IMHO), but the patches work great because the pressure ensures a perfect seal. Just make sure the area is clean for a good contact.
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• #2937
I always carry a small patch box with two superglues, one tire boot, several rubber patches and some anchovies.
If I get a flat that leaks I'll put an anchovie with glue, to avoid the pressure expelling the anchovie. If it's too big I'll glue and rubber patch outside to carry me home. If it's massive I'll use the tire boot inside.
Of course if you have to get the tire out of the rim it's better to have CO2 cannisters than a pump to remount the thing.
Best long term solution for any leaky fixings is a patch inside as recommended above.
Sounds complicated but I've been riding without carrying spare tubes for a year now, usually takes me a minute on the roadside to fix a flat, in many cases I don't even notice until I feel a soft tire and remove the offending glass at home. Hope this helps -
• #2938
What's the best tubeless repair (anchovy/sardine) kit for expedition MTB use?
Looking at offerings from lezyne, maxalami, blackburn, etc.
My Genuine Innovations Tubeless Tyre Repair Kit is not fun, the applicator thing is way too small :(
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• #2939
Dynaplug
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• #2940
https://enduro-mtb.com/en/best-tubeless-repair-kit/
Useful reading
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• #2941
yeah, that pushed me towards the maxalami
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• #2942
I fixed a ~5mm slash puncture with a maxalami, on a 32mm cx tire. It worked. Haven't used one since...
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• #2943
That maxalami one looks identical to the Giant branded one I have, if that adds availability and convenience for anyone
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• #2944
I read that you're supposed to use tubeless tape that is a bit wider than the rim internal width. Is this so the bead sits on the tape?
https://www.velocipedesalon.com/forum/f40/how-tubeless-rim-tape-install-45115.html
I've stupidly not read this before buying some tape. I have 23mm tape and 23mm rims. Do I need to reorder tape around 26mm? Still waiting for my valves to arrive and haven't got a tubeless pump or any fluid so no rush.
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• #2945
I used 21mm tape on 18mm wide rims and it worked well
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• #2946
It's cos the bead isn't flat and that makes it wider than the straight wall to wall measurement.
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• #2947
you have found the DT Swiss RR411 rims like all DT rims is not really tubeless compatible. Tubeless tyres should not unseat on a rim with a bead lock. Dt swiss rims lack this feature so are simply a fake tubeless rim. Being tubeless compatible is alot more than just getting the tyre to seat and seal.
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• #2948
Maxalami plugs work for me. removing a tubeless tyre is not wothout risk. bead stretch can mean refitting is a problem.
I only carry tyre plugs, no tubes, no tyre boots and yet I mamange to plug some proper whoppers. The fix for the big holes may not be long term but a tyre with a big hole is fit for the bin in my book. I did that with tubes. Tyres where the plug holds at 80 psi get used. In general I get tot wear tyres out as plugs do work. I think when people say plugs dont work they have been using Genuine innovations or the weldite kits but these plugs are not as sticky so are more easily pushed out.
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• #2949
you have found the DT Swiss RR411 rims like all DT rims is not really tubeless compatible
Although the issues I have had are primarily about punctures not sealing.
What would you recommend as a light tubeless alloy road rim instead of DT Swiss? My RR411s are about 50% worn so will get the wheels rebuilt with new rims at some point.
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• #2950
I had that problem before, what happened is when the tire dropped to the central ridge the tape, as it's not very flexible, lifted from the sides. As you pump the tire it will move to the rim walls, pushing the tape back into place. If the tape is too small it may not get trapped between tire and rim, and air could slid under making the whole operation fail.
Thanks. This was bang on in the end (took me a while to remember to buy some 21mm tape)