Transcontinental Race No. 7 - TCR7 - #TCRN07 - 2019

Yeah, no point in knowing how much effort you are putting in to getting lost!

But power would be a deal breaker for my main unit. I'll see how I get on with the 1030.

Jesse uses an eTrex - obviously doesn't use power

Used etrex 30x in Scotland. Was good but I couldn't get turn directions to work.
Also the buttons on the side are fiddly. But it didnt blink and worked fine, took batteries too which was a big plus.

Used a 1030 for tcr last year and didnt blink, was fine. My 1000 shit its pants at Italy this year.

Just pot luck.

Seems that angry Asian cycling tips dude is giving them a ripping on Twitter, deservedly.

No idea is SunRace follow shimano or do their own thing.
If we look at shimano 11 speed MTB cassettes, they are made to also fit on a 10 speed shimano freehub body. In the shimano MTB world they didn't change the size of the free hub body from 10 to 11 spd. So it means if you want to use an 11 spd shimano MTB cassette on an 11 spd road free hub body, a spacer is necessary. Now about that spacer, I found that the 1mm spacer is enough to tighten the lock ring. The 1.75 and 1.85mm spacer push the cassette more outboard. Try the 1mm spacer first.

Anyone using the new Sigma Rox 12 ?
some of the features look very interesting

Could always have another head unit though. I carry both.

Seems that angry Asian cycling tips dude is giving them a ripping on Twitter, deservedly.

I'm helping him out :) Maybe I should point him to the Garmin thread on here. Half of it is me ranting.

I've had a look and I appear to be using the Direct Mount style so I think I need this one:
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink-dm

It moves the derailler way back:

I still don't know what impact it would have on shifting and I don't really want to buy another one to find out.

The 11 spd Ultegra RD-R8000 GS (longer cage) works like normal for an 11-36 cassette, and works fine for an 11-40 cassette. No roadlink necesary. If 11-42, then Wolftooth Tanpan + MTB RD-M8000 GS.

@skinny how was the 11-40 with DI2 on italy divide?

Let me know if you want me to bring it in tomorrow is my last work day this week could do lunch time if that works

Fine. I had the clutch derailleur.

You should all just buy the new grx one.

Shifting works but it was getting a bit crappy by the end of the 600. Maybe it was just a bit gummed up, it had been raining a while. I've cleaned it now I'll see how it goes. Just not sure why people would use a Wolf Tooth if the stock derailler works?

Yours is the same as the one I've already got though. If you have the DM one I could try that?

Sorry confusion, I thought you were saying you actually had the direct mount one and therefore mine would be different.

That’s my thoughts. It doesn’t increase the chain wrap capacity, so if it clears the big cog then you are sorted. If I put a wolf tooth on mine the jockey wheels would be miles away in the 11T. They are already km away as it is.

Indeed I have the wrong one so it's going back for the CX version!
Thanks for your help.

Nope. I have the Standard one. I bought it years ago when DM didn't exist. I think I'm going to leave my setup as is. I might get around to trying a WT DM at some point but I can get all my gears now it's a bit sloppy when the speed is up. I'm going to tweak the B screw a bit to help out.

Yeah, so mine is set about 5mm away from the 40T. I could probably drop this down a couple of mm which will make a slight improvement when I'm down near the 11T. But, since I get all my gears, I don't see a WT DM helping me unless it does some magic with angles that I can't wrap (geddit) my head around?

I'm enjoying the confusion caused, speaking to people over chat on stores sites, for such low compatibility questions.

What chain rings are you running?

Buzz

sizes?

Compact, obvs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSPuVFWiyhY

Ah ok, I'm hoping to run 34/46

I ran that combo last year but now I have a 40T low gear so I just left it normal Compact.