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True, and then as a Sherpa you face the choice between taking the underqualified guy up the mountain or losing your contract/whatever with the agency who hired you. There are several points in the chain where there are people saying "you'll be fine up there, don't worry".
Ultimately the problem needs to be handled by the Nepalese government. Deaths look bad for them and have an impact on tourist numbers. But with such limited resources (and corruption to contend with) the deaths of a few tourists per year is small fry in comparison with the other problems in the country.
frankenbike
Most people aren't rocking up in Kathmandu and hiring a local guide to go up Everest, they are booking through international agencies, so it's American or European experts telling the clients they can do it and dumping the client on a local employee, I think that's a slightly different dynamic.