Pre 1950s rides of LFGSS: old bikes, vintage rats, classic lightweights

You’ll have to weld it to get it off it’s like that.< sounds ominous...

on a lighter note, I'm sure someone on here needs this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-HOBBS-OF-BARBICAN-STEEL-MERTENS-PATTERN-HANDLEBAR-STEM-SUPER-SCARCE/283475565900?hash=item420075dd4c:g:VVgAAOSwpXZc0BRs

very tidy tiny mid-'50s(?) Hawkes of Stratford. Looks to have been sympathetically restored will a few '80s parts. In Torquey but the seller will post

Were those the ones on ebay? I was pleased someone else bought those before Friday night beers had their way with me :)

I feel for you re the freewheel, I had a torrid time with one last year. Is it a notched freewheel? Sheldon's advice "Once the notches are damaged, or to remove and discard an old freewheel for which you have no tool, you must disassemble the freewheel and clamp the core into a vise -- left side of the wheel up -- then unscrew the wheel counterclockwise."https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html Doesn't solve your leverage problem though!

I ask re the notches as you could improvise a tool - the correct thickness bit of steel in a vice, slot the frewheel on top, try and turn and see if it gives before you get a hernia.

it's not a notched one sadly, just the old type with the two pin holes. I'm going to have a go at it with a nail punch and hammer this weekend, and if this fails have a rethink. I don't really want to damage the hub as it's a nice Harden one., so will have to be careful....

yes, the ones on ebay. Friday beers obviously went to my head quicker than yours... Not that I regret it.

Looks interesting: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RETRO-TRACK-BIKE-WITH-FANTASTIC-LOOKING-LUGS-ANY-IDEA-WHO-MADE-IT/143241601738?hash=item2159dd62ca:g:9qQAAOSw35pc0GME

They look nice, I was very tempted, but have a pair of Fiamme on the go already so had to resist. I look forward to seeing them built up.

And this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Racing-Bike-Higgins-Ultralite-track-racer/233222491846?hash=item364d24cec6:g:cs0AAOSwNBBc1IBM

I had a go at that too, not sure if you've tried it before, but they are on tighter than you'd think. I ended up with scraped knuckles and punch dents in the pin holes but got it open. Good luck!
[The whole experience was a shitshow of impatience and stupidity on my part, I initially stripped the threads on a Campag NR hub by clamping the tool on with a skewer and then not loosening the skewer once the freewheel start to turn. Was wondering what the clicking was before the peels of threads dropped out. Waaa. Some meagre threads left, completed removing the freewheel, serviced it, put it back on, went for a test ride and it started slipping on the first hill. I've got a replacement hub now, it needs a polish and then the wheel rebuilt but it's taking a while to get up the enthusiasm for it.]

Block removal

It sounds to me as though there's some confusion here. I think the 'pin holes' referred to are in the outer cone of the freewheel bearing. As Sheldon Brown says, if the notches for the block remover are damaged , the block is knackered and will have to be binned. So, remove that outer cone (n.b. left hand thread - generally stamped 'unscrew' with appropriate arrow) , then throw away the outer part and grip the central core in a bench vice - unscrew as described above.

If you’re near Staines and need a weld, I’m happy to do it.

Jim Soens
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F303151059225

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Chrome is shot on my simplex shifter - live with it or sand it back to bare metal?

I'd live with it, @Quiet_Mike style.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YUQiLkoeg2ceAumP6

I think you're right @7ven

Oh yeah, that's wonderful!

Thanks @7ven

Slowly building up my Ellis Briggs after a few false starts and generally laziness. Although I don't really have room for it as a full bike...

Pictures of it as bought and as a work in progress

My front shifter is like that, live with it. Even on a re-painted bike a bit of 'patina' on the equipment doesn't go amiss.

that's nice. What did you use to clean the rust up on the front shifter. soft wire wool and elbow grease or something else?

Block removal

Yep that's what I meant. The freewheel that I had trouble with was a notched one, requiring a removal tool with two pins. [What I meant initially was if you don't have the tool for a notched freewheel, you may be able to remove the small sprockets so the notches are exposed and improvise a tool.] I did managed to get mine off with the tool clamped to the hub with a skewer, but damaged the notches, damaged my tool, stripped the threads off the hub, taught my kids new swear words and learnt some life lessons >.< After the freewheel was off I was determined to service it, so opened the outer cone using a hammer and punch. It was all perfect inside, no need to have opened it. Also to get the pawls and balls back in you need to be an ambidextrous octopus. All in all not my finest hour(s). [It did clean up nicely though, and at least the notches aren't beyond use.]

Wishing @jeff80 the best of luck with his removal!

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Ah, so its the inner notches not the pin holes I need to work on? I'll try that tomorrow. I didn't have the tool but I'm sure I can figure something. I guess I've been doing it wrong up to now-much more experienced with fixed and hub gears!

Just out of curiosity what's the make of the stuck freewheel?

you might like to look at this thread on servicing a freewheel

I use a variety of techniques depending on the parts.
For larger items electrolysis is useful. For a lot of smaller parts, oxalic acid (or any similar acid) will convert the rust.
For a single small part, I get the Evaporust. It is excellent. And then apply polish to seal the component.
https://evaporusteurope.com/
It actually works as good as it is claimed.