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I had a go at that too, not sure if you've tried it before, but they are on tighter than you'd think. I ended up with scraped knuckles and punch dents in the pin holes but got it open. Good luck!
[The whole experience was a shitshow of impatience and stupidity on my part, I initially stripped the threads on a Campag NR hub by clamping the tool on with a skewer and then not loosening the skewer once the freewheel start to turn. Was wondering what the clicking was before the peels of threads dropped out. Waaa. Some meagre threads left, completed removing the freewheel, serviced it, put it back on, went for a test ride and it started slipping on the first hill. I've got a replacement hub now, it needs a polish and then the wheel rebuilt but it's taking a while to get up the enthusiasm for it.] -
Block removal
It sounds to me as though there's some confusion here. I think the 'pin holes' referred to are in the outer cone of the freewheel bearing. As Sheldon Brown says, if the notches for the block remover are damaged , the block is knackered and will have to be binned. So, remove that outer cone (n.b. left hand thread - generally stamped 'unscrew' with appropriate arrow) , then throw away the outer part and grip the central core in a bench vice - unscrew as described above.
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veloham
clubman
@jeff80
it's not a notched one sadly, just the old type with the two pin holes. I'm going to have a go at it with a nail punch and hammer this weekend, and if this fails have a rethink. I don't really want to damage the hub as it's a nice Harden one., so will have to be careful....