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eh? Some confusion here, possibly caused by machine/stitch names. The names below refer to both the machine and the stitch pattern, apart from the awl. Domestic (tabletop) versions of lockstitch and overlocker are available, with the others are industrial, which generally means mounted in a flatbed table, but also used in specialise shapes.
Lockstitch is the 'regular' straight sewing stitch, . It uses two threads, one top, one bottom, which if either is broken will unravel locally, and over time the seam will open up.
Chainstitch is more correctly a 'locked off' stitch and also refers to the machine. One top thread here with the construction looping back on itself to lock off the individual stitch. This means if either top or bottom is broken it won't unravel further. The most common application is your jean hem, ensuring the raw edge won't unfurl once your lemon yellow Hush Puppie loafers have worn through those boot-cut Pepe hems.
Overlocker is a machine to finish the edge of a fabric, but can also be used to join two pieces of fabric together. It is multi-thread, from 3 up to 6, with the spools mounted above the table - there is no bobbin underneath the fabric. The machines cuts the fabric just before the stitching part, ensuring a clean alignment of edge with the stitch, and a nice, neat finish. It is semi-locked off, with the number of threads arresting any unravelling and distributing stress through a seam, but it is possible to unravel. Likely place to see is used 1) to finish edge of a woven fabric is inside a smart trouser leg / skirt sideseams, and 2) to join two fabrics is a t-shirt side seam
Flatlock looks like a similar stitch to an overlocker, again available in multithread, but is used only to join jersey fabrics. It does this by cutting, overlaying, stitching in a flat profile. Again, good durability to thread breaks, simply because of the thread/stitch density preventing unravelling, but it does happen. You can add more function into the zig-zag construction, such as a reflective or elastic tape for extra support. Most likely place you'll see this is in a pair of bibshorts or a baselayer, where its high stretch and next-to-skin comfort work well with it's durability
Coverstitch is similar to the flatlock, again multithread, but is used to finish hems not join fabrics. Most common place to see it would be a t-shirt or jersey piece hem; Cutting versions are available, and if you look at different t's you'll see some with a nice clean finish inside, and others with loose, chewed tags still showing outside of the stitch
Awl is a needle spike on a handle, with thread hole toward the sharp end of the spike. It's what that weird holey spike is on your Swiss army knife. Awl refers to the tool, because you can create many different stitches to suit the application. It's traditionally used on thick leather (after holes have been created) or canvas, but also super handy for quick, cheap repairs on the go, and defo, you can create a bombproof repair. They're generally large diameter, so will punch quite a hole in tightly woven fabrics, but it does mean you can use double-hard thread.
You can mimic constructions using a domestic machine; using a lockstitch (x2 in parallel) then zig-zag over the same section can create a similar effect as an overlock, but without the durability (Similarly, domestic overlockers will have a coverstitch setting).
The domestic machine ziz-zag setting is good for adding more durability to one spot (ie base of a zip, corner of a pocket) by setting to narrow (2mm) and super dense. If you run this for 12mm it mimics a bar-tack machine, and could also be used to create a button hole.
Hope this helps, happy stitching all.
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@danb I hadn't heard of the ISO assignments, thanks for prompting me to have a look ...for anyone curious;
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Is it Saddle Stitch?
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-saddle-stitch-leather/
http://after-the-denim.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/how-to-saddle-stitch-like-hermes.htmlthis is more like a 'double-sided running stitch' ....but! you could also do this with a chainstitch, and loop back each stitch, and on each side, to make the most durable construction.
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Looking for some advice, Mrs M_V has expressed some interest in doing some sewing maybe doing a millinery or corsetery course so I thought I could get her a sewing machine for crimbo.
If I had around £100 to spend do you think I can get something worthwhile? Being a gift, new would be good but maybe at that budget 2nd hand would be a better idea?
Any brands to look for/avoid?
There’s a couple Janome machines on the hobbycraft site that fit the budget and have good reviews.
The only name I’ve heard of would be Singer but having seen them in Lidl not too long ago I wonder if that brand is still as reputable as it once would have been?
Cheers.
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Don’t buy Singer. It is not worth it at domestic level. Mum bought a little one and it is awful. I struggle with it, too awkward to use.
You can get a lot of machine for £100. Lots of options. Try to find an actual sewing machine shop, either a smaller haberdashery or a repairman, as they normally know what’s what.
Send me a message as I have my old Necchi 559 domestic going spare, and could box it up or maybe bring it to London soonish. Will clean it. It works fine but it has been abused since purchase (new) in around 2004/2005. It came from an actual sewing repairman, who I recently bought my industrial servo motor from.
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I don't know much about current domestic models but I would also suggest second hand from a sewing machine shop as above or maybe a private seller that comes across as beeing honest and says the machine works. So maybe just get pdlouches Necchi.
Obviously don't buy a "should work, but didn't test properly" or anything missing the foot pedal from ebay.
There is nothing that beats an old Bernina in terms of quality, but then 100 might not be enough for the rolls royce of sewing machines in working order.
You don't need fancy electronic stuff just straight and zizag. -
This looks great. Also seems to be someone that knows what they are talking about.
But might be too nice if its not sure that the hobby will take off. -
Oh course, not southern...
Send me a pm, though, as I’d sell the machine cheap like £30 or something. It’ll easily go via Collect+ for less than a tenner insured, and I can look to sort you out a small pile of material for pennies.
Alternatively, pm me and I can sort you a small pile of material for pennies.
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My sister and my wife are obsessively protective of their fabric scissors, saying you must never cut paper, plastic or anything else with them.
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To all you sewing lot...
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@Psychobikin
A sewing awl will do, but its worth noting that very few sewing machines are not lockstitch (ISO 301) apart from some speciality types - chainstich and overlockers for example, so it is no "better" than a machine stitch.
What it will let you use if thicker needles and thread than a hobbyist/non-industrial machine.