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If anyhing is worth preserving in the Resilion department it's the bottom end, not the levers.
There are circumstances where Resilion are the only answer, unless you are prepared to make radical alterations which cannot be undone. My bike above in this column would need to be drilled through its fork crown to fit a modern brake; I didn't think that was the right thing to do.
Aside from the levers and the cables, it's necessary to deal with the brake blocks. If you can find original Resilion blocks which have not deteriorated with age, good luck to you!
I have found modern blocks which can be fitted to the Resillion shoes, but unfortunately they do not come to the rim at the right angle and so need a very long 'running in' period before they work as well as they should.
Between keeping the frame and kit original and being able to stop, I see this as a bit of a problem, and I would be grateful to anyone who can offer a satisfactory soluton.
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clubman
I was going to see if either of them worked with a caliper.
I’ve hit a couple of obstacles with the build this weekend. First one was the brake lever, but that’s fine because I’ll use it like a crosstop. Second was my seatpost is too small. I thought it was 26.8mm but the clamp was squashed closed and gave me a false measurement, which I must have not noticed. I’ve opened it back up and it must be 27.0 because a 27.2 is too big. Third is my brake ferrules don’t fit in the Resilion levers so I’m going to spin them down a bit in the drill with a fine file. Fourth is the chainring has a lot of run-out, but I think a good whack with a mallet will bring it back true. I might re-mount it in the other positions in case it’s a bent arm and bent ring combo where one position runs pretty much true. Might get lucky.