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You're correct, definitely not intended for drop bars.
Are you intending to use Resilion cantilevers ? As you see above, I've got some, but they have their problems. I have recently had to pay good money for a secondhand cable - and normally I wouldn't fit a secondhand brake parts at all. Some years ago I had a cable 'professionally' made for the back of a tandem I was using with my children. It failed suddenly (the soldered joint where one cable becomes two) fortunately without causing a crash, but I felt distinctly unhappy about it!
clubman-
I was going to see if either of them worked with a caliper.
I’ve hit a couple of obstacles with the build this weekend. First one was the brake lever, but that’s fine because I’ll use it like a crosstop. Second was my seatpost is too small. I thought it was 26.8mm but the clamp was squashed closed and gave me a false measurement, which I must have not noticed. I’ve opened it back up and it must be 27.0 because a 27.2 is too big. Third is my brake ferrules don’t fit in the Resilion levers so I’m going to spin them down a bit in the drill with a fine file. Fourth is the chainring has a lot of run-out, but I think a good whack with a mallet will bring it back true. I might re-mount it in the other positions in case it’s a bent arm and bent ring combo where one position runs pretty much true. Might get lucky.
Jonny69
I have this locking Resilion brake lever. The clamp is too big for the drop part of the handlebars but it fits on the 25.4mm part. Additionally, the lever seems to sit way too far forward in the brakes off position. Is this lever supposed to be used on flat bars rather than drop bars? I have another early non-locking Resilion lever and it’s the same.