• Should you not be considering the length of the cranks? Some people find this is critical, others less so. Personally I can't get on with anything other than 6 and 3/4" (170mm), but others seem to be able to adapt. I have a good anecdote on this but it can wait till we meet.

    BB spindle length: there's quite a bit of variety - ideally you want the shortest spindle that will allow the chainring to clear the frame. I can't remember how the BW numbering system works, but you should probably avoid a spindle stamped 'GCC' (gear case clearance) . 'NGCC' would probably be OK.

    I think there are three different types of RH crank so far as clearance is concerned:

    1. Single chainring
    2. Double chainring (a bit wider to allow for the changer cage)
    3. Gear case (these will have the biggest gap)

    Each of these will have a different spindle. Of course you may get away with excessive clearance, but it can affect the chain line badly, and I find it has an adverse effect on my right knee.

    You may well know this, but the 5 pin chain ring in your photo appears to have the fixing bolts screwed in from the front side of the ring - they actually go in from the back (as with the Williams).

    Personally, I like the Williams C34 (that's what you have there). They are a good, down to earth set, and there are plenty of spare rings knocking about - I may even have the one you need!

  • That's a useful reference: Steve knows what he's talking about.

    I can add a couple of points

    Chater - I don't recognise the numbers Steve quotes and I guess they must be for bearings using 1/4" balls. The number I know for 5/16th" balls with a single ring is 1007.

    TA - 314 is intended for single rings, but I have used them with a double by putting a spacing washer behind the fixed cup. I've done this because I like to make the 'tread' (i.e. the distance between the pedals) as narrow as possible. The spacing washers are the the same as those used to put behind a screw-on block. This trick may also be helpful where a cottered spindle is slightly too short to give clearance.

    Another little trick which can gain a few thou is to file the side of the cotter pin so the crank can sit slightly further out on the spindle.

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