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Should you not be considering the length of the cranks? Some people find this is critical, others less so. Personally I can't get on with anything other than 6 and 3/4" (170mm), but others seem to be able to adapt. I have a good anecdote on this but it can wait till we meet.
BB spindle length: there's quite a bit of variety - ideally you want the shortest spindle that will allow the chainring to clear the frame. I can't remember how the BW numbering system works, but you should probably avoid a spindle stamped 'GCC' (gear case clearance) . 'NGCC' would probably be OK.
I think there are three different types of RH crank so far as clearance is concerned:
- Single chainring
- Double chainring (a bit wider to allow for the changer cage)
- Gear case (these will have the biggest gap)
Each of these will have a different spindle. Of course you may get away with excessive clearance, but it can affect the chain line badly, and I find it has an adverse effect on my right knee.
You may well know this, but the 5 pin chain ring in your photo appears to have the fixing bolts screwed in from the front side of the ring - they actually go in from the back (as with the Williams).
Personally, I like the Williams C34 (that's what you have there). They are a good, down to earth set, and there are plenty of spare rings knocking about - I may even have the one you need!
- Single chainring
clubman-
Good tip re the pins on the chain ring! I'd have mounted them as they were. So, no, didn't know that. and didn't realise.
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"I can't remember how the BW numbering system works..."
you don't have to, just remember the location
anidel
Big_Block
And yes, it's about durability more than weight. Was just stating they felt heavier but are indeed lighter. Albeit by a few grams.