Current Projects chat and miscellany

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  • Just installed a full carbon 1" fork today, as the first carbon steerer I've dealt with before, it does give me the heebeegeebies a little too. Finding the carbon bung was the hardest bit, eventually found an M:Part one though.

  • Already had one fitted.

    I am going with an M-Part Elite headset to begin with mind, I’ll upgrade if I’m happy with how the frame rides.

  • Reckon it’ll be okay?

    Yes, it will be fine. DH bikes had 1" steerers in the olden days, as did the majority of tandems. At this point, I usually mention the skinny steel tubes which were good enough for Nelson Vails on his own, but by way of a change, here's a 1" steerer supporting both Vails and his tandem stoker (Leslie Barczewski?)


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  • I’m not really worried about the steerer, just looks pretty tiny after riding with a tapered head tube.

    I was asking more about using a shim on a carbon steerer.

  • I always thought it sealed through oxydization too but I found out that stans is actually a collection of latex crystals suspended in liquid latex.

    When you get a puncture the liquid is drawn towards the hole and the crystals plug it. Apparently the race formula has larger crystals for more "high pressure" applications so as the hole is plugged quicker.

    No idea on pit stop though.

  • I was asking more about using a shim on a carbon steerer

    That's fine; if you want to play safe:
    1.Make sure you thoroughly deburr and chamfer all the edges which contact the steerer
    2.Use a shim that's slightly taller than the stem with some 1⅛" spacers covering the projecting ends
    3.Use a turned and milled shim in preference to a stamped and rolled one

  • I don't think you get a pull direction closer to tangential than with that one

    Dredge (ish), but as somebody just called attention to this discussion, I should probably address your point properly.
    Yes, a jubilee clip does a very good job of approaching a tangential pull on a floppy strap - these are good things. My concern is that the minimal thread engagement and coarse thread pitch might not be capable of generating the required circumferential tension.

  • I see.
    It would be cool if someone were to adress these points in a nicer product. Changing thread pitch is easy, but I can’t imagine how it would be possible to improve thread engagement. Adapting to different seat tube diameters would be easy though.

  • It would be cool if someone were to adress these points in a nicer product

    Why bother when you can sell massively overpriced and badly designed seat clamps by laser etching the established brand of some other bicycle part on them and offering then in pretty anodised colours? 🙂
    To be fair, even the really bad ones work well enough, as do the #tester_approved cheap generic barrel nut styles. When they don't, because of abnormal loads or particularly unfavourable combinations of seat post and tube material, a secondary clamp on the seat post or combination double clamp is an available and effective solution. The world is clearly not crying out for a better seat post clamp.

  • Changing thread pitch is easy

    It is, but on a worm drive it tends to make your problems worse rather than better because the depth of engagement is proportional to the pitch. The engagement on the band is the weak point, as anybody who has stripped out a Jubilee clip can tell you. Making the contact area smaller and then trying to increase the tension seems like a recipe for disaster.

  • new US stems Thanks @kisspascool !!!

    ![](

  • I’m one of those cockwaffles who names their bikes, I think I’m naming this (upgraded) one “wave of mutilation”.


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  • Hot !

  • Shimano trigger shifters are probably some of the most reliable pieces of kit in the world. I’ve got some 20+ year old XT shifters that still work excellently. Depending on a few things you might need to open them up and lube/grease (or spray gt85 and wet lube through the cable entry hole) them every 10 years or so but yeah, that’s an easy job and I’ve never seen a rapid fire fail.

  • I think I’ll look out for some xt stuff then. Do the left hand shifters have incremental shift or are they indexed for triple?

  • Very excited about my new project. Just got myself a Soma Smoothie frame and building up a roadbike. Looking for nice forks now. I would like; unused, carbon, straight 1 1/8, and staight fork legs. Budget is around 150£ and it doesn't have to be super light. Any tips? :)

  • That's really nicek what's it used as? XC? and what's the pouch under the downtube?

  • It is more like the second one, though not exactly alike.
    According to Rivendell you can mount a regular DT shifter, if you file away this nub on the Sunrace shifter. But I just replaced the shifter lever with a shimano DT-unit.

  • I think they come in either double or triple.

    Not sure if the spacing is the same between double and triple chainrings. If someone can confirm, you can use a triple shifter and set the derailleur limit screw so it can't pull to the third position.

  • What steerer length? There's some ENVE 2.0's with a 200mm steerer on Ebay that got no bids at £130 last week. He's relisted them at the same price so you may get a bargain. Seemed like a decent seller when i emailed him, i only bailed as i need more length...

  • Mostly XC, we’ve got crazy babyheads over here so the plus tyres are a bonus.
    The pouch in from Wolf Tooth, part of their B-Rad stystem. Holds two cans of beer, or a can of beer, sealant and some tools.

  • Wtf are we wtfing?

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Current Projects chat and miscellany

Posted by Avatar for emoxfag @emoxfag

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