• As I understand it, yes.

    From what I’ve learned talking to bike fitters, in relation to saddle position, there is an objective optimal position based on your bio-mechanics.

    The geometry of the frame should put you in the “correct” type of position for the intended type of riding.

    “Cockpit” is more of a preference, there’s no ‘optimal’ in the way there is for saddle position. It’s a trade off of reach/comfort/aero/steering etc. etc.

  • Makes sense, I jammed my saddle forward a while back to compensate for too much reach and that caused a lot of other issues. My mountainbike has been very comfortable from the get-go, so I'll have a good look at the saddle position on there to get some cues for my other bikes.

    (I've decided to not buy a new frame / bike before having done a bike fit, but realistically that's still a year out as my student budget doesn't allow for it.)

  • Makes sense, I jammed my saddle forward a while back to compensate for too much reach and that caused a lot of other issues.

    When it come to bike fit; saddle to bb distance is the first thing to sort out, then everything fall in place (get correct stem length, handlebar, pedal position etc.).

    As you found, moving saddle make issues worse than shorten the stem to reduce the reach.

  • That’s probably wise re: fit and buying a new frame.

    You can have a fairly decent crack at a basic fit yourself, especially if you’ve got a home trainer you can put the bike on. I vaguely remember the GCN video on bike fit to be not terrible.

    If you’ve got a bike that feels good - make sure you note the measurements before you start messing with it.

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