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The fixing bolt (classic type) doesn't touch the original hub threads, it passes straight through from the NDS and threads into the adapter
Making room for a bigger axle would have been nice for weight-weenie purposes, but a 10mm steel axle is fine for solos with 120mm OLN (the bearings are quite close to the dropouts in this case), and not that heavy if a 138mm long hollow axle is used with M6 tapped ends for small fixing screws. For conventional fixing with a ~160mm axle and track nuts, weight-weenie concerns have obviously already been abandoned 🙂 A big axle only really makes sense with big bearings anyway, and you're pretty much stuck with 6001 on the NDS as the hub shell won't accommodate larger, and the DS might as well match even though there is a way of getting a big bearing to play nicely with a 6-bolt sprocket if the drop the bore register.
6-off M5 bolts would certainly take the load, but they would have to pass through the DS bearing housing so that would be weakened by having counterbores for the bolt heads intersecting the outer race fitting bore. The problem is that we're starting with the fait accompli of the Hed hub, which has very little spare metal. If we had freedom of action, we'd just make the hub shell big enough to take the sprocket fixing bolts directly, and the adapter wouldn't be much more than a spacer.
Looks good! Is there enough material in the fixing bolt shoulder to cut the dura-ace twinthread? or do you add material somehow.
and is it a classic fixing bolt or one of the new larger ones (which could fit a larger axle!) for newer dura-ace/xt/xtr hubs?