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According to what I've found it's not a spin,
http://www.biketechreview.com/forum/1-general-discussion/305-trispoke-brand-wheels
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/wheels-tires/info-trispoke-brand-wheels-not-hed-specialized-51133.htmlhttp://www.bikeforums.net/archive/index.php/t-494345.html
Also the hub in my wheel isn't the same as the spin hub that mdcc_tester posted.
Wheel is currently at the shop again and I'm waiting to hear back if anything can be done.
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need the TL-FH10 tool to replace the free hub. Does anyone have one that they are willing to let me borrow?
Condor have one in their workshop, they didn't charge me for taking the freehub off.
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Okay, unfortunately I'm not in London (until september anyway). My friend managed to get the current free hub on by using a large allen key apparently, so I might try that and see if it works. The problem is that the current free hub is slightly ovaled, which made it not run smooth. It was bodged together to a point where it would work. Want to try and get it into a good running order.
Did you manage to find a way to convert yours to fixed after you removed your free hub? Just want to consider my options really
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My friend managed to get the current free hub on by using a large allen key apparently, so I might try that and see if it works.
You can get it on by hand, you just can't get it off. A bodge tool which might get enough purchase on the spline would be a length of 7/16" square bar, based on internet information* suggesting that the tool needs 8 splines and an OD just under 15mm. A square would engage half the splines, and 7/16" square is 15.7mm across corners so knocking the corners off should give a reasonable fit.
Did you manage to find a way to convert yours to fixed after you removed your free hub?
I have a plan in my head, but it hasn't even made it as far as a drawing yet, much less metal. I might eventually do it for the lolz, but it's a low priority project and it would still be cheaper to sell the rear and buy a front.
*so take it with a pinch of salt and do your own measuring before committing.
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My friend has told me that he successfully got it on and off with a large Allen key when he was testing it so I'll see where that gets me. If that doesn't work I'll have to decide if I want to bodge a tool or just leave the wheel bodged.
Cheers for your help! Btw if for whatever reason you wanted to sell that free hub you get removed I'd be interested in purchasing it off you!
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if for whatever reason you wanted to sell that free hub you get removed I'd be interested in purchasing it off you
That could be arranged, let me dig it out and contemplate a realistic value.
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a cheap hed3 alternative
Think that just about sums them up.
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Spin = vv heavy. AS I remember, my mates road rear was 2.5kg, without cassette or tyres.
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Is this trispoke the version with a shimano freehub body? (that can be exchanged with the surly fixxer)
My guess is yes and no. It's a Shimano rotor, but I'm pretty sure it's the 7403 pattern which attaches a different way (big 2-start thread) that's not compatible with the spline connection used by the Fixxer.
AFAIK, the Fixxer compatible ones are HG only, not that HG/UG hybrid with the external lock ring threads. I can't remember when the transition happened, but it does not coincide with the switch from Specialized to Hed, so that's not the way to tell. It's either there are some Specialized HG ones or there are some Hed HG/UG hybrid ones🤷♂️ -
Got myself a rear Specialized Trispoke for pretty cheap.
Looks like the previous picture above.
The bearing cover (no. 13) has snapped, so I have used a spare rubber cover that covers it, though wondering if its an easily sourced item, or maybe need to salvage a 7400 hub?The freehub doesn't pull off, so expect it is the threaded version that needs the rare threaded freehub tool to remove.
Is there any point trying to convert to a front wheel, or should I just service the bearings and use as rear wheel?
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wondering if its an easily sourced item, or maybe need to salvage a 7400 hub?
Part number 32E0300 is common to FH-7403, FH-6401/2, FH-1055/6, FH-M650, FH-M732, FH-MT62 and probably several other Shimano hubs of that era, so there are plenty of donor candidates if you can't find it as spare, although if what you're using works there's no point spending time and money making it "original"
Is there any point trying to convert to a front wheel
No, it will always be cheaper and better to sell the rear and buy a front.
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it would appear the change also coincided with a change in carbon weave as my hed with the yellow/orange faded sticker is like the above wheel and features the hub in the schematic. Hed seemed to have their own version of a fixxer type adapter, did they actually invent it? My Pro Am disc is fitted with something like that but it isnt removeable - likewise my rear spinergy rev-x is the same.
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Any easy way of servicing the screw on freehub? Or is it like a shimano square taper bottom bracket and it basically never dies?
The are a single spare part unit, practically impossible to service. They last well if kept dry but can easily be killed if put up wet.
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Homemade TL-FH10 tool
...at least the pictures are easy to follow
or a "7/16" square key":
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What was/is the secret plan here? How would you go from the hub thread to a 6 bolt pattern?
Probably bore out the hub shell to make a new common thread rather than try to replicate the original thread. Not exactly sure how I'd lock it to prevent backing out under reverse torque, there are a couple of possibilities but some dowel pins would be simplest.
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Yes, something along those lines
HORSE1
haveo
gbj_tester
BigH
umop3pisdn
ColnagoDaft
svenhöek
Acliff
neilbah
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About
Tri-spokes etc
Posted by
@Todd
It's a spin, trispoke isn't the brand.