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• #727
i like it veeerrry much!
in the end for my frame i did the 3triagle to get more room for the rubber and a more compact rear triangle -
• #728
THIS!!! i regret not doing it :(
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• #729
Ah cool. And for the angles it can't handle you just offer up and file away, then repeat?
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• #730
Yeah pretty much. It was confusing as hell on these stays coz I was flipping them over between offering it up and putting it in the vice to file.
Even with the template there’s still a bit of offering up and fine tuning to be done.
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• #731
Thanks. Do you worry about the angle at which you file the tube wall? What I mean is: Do you worry about having enough of the wall's cross section in contact with the tube it's mating to - make sense?
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• #732
I think I understand, the template shows you a solid line for the outside edge of the tube and a dotted one for where you need to chamferbit to meet the tube. Kinda happens anyway as you file it if you work with the file running in the sane direction as the tube you are going to butt up against. The thinner the wall the less pronounced that is too.
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• #733
If you want some ideas for a stem, Marino Bikes in Peru made me one, pretty posh.
2 bolts on the nondrive side (I'll find a better pic later, sorry.)
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• #734
That's exactly what I meant. The term bevel or chamfer occurred to me after I posted!
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• #735
Some more...
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• #736
I finished off the brazing on the Holdsworth last week, took it to work with me on Monday and chased and faced the bb, gave the raw bits a good coat of lacquer (I know it won't keepthe rust away completely but I want the ratty look on this anyway) and built it today.
Went with a coaster brake rear wheel as I thougt the bb wouldn't be high enough for fixed but with these tyres (28c rear, 25c front) it is about 10 3/4" so it'd actually be fine.
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• #737
Thats amazing work!
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• #738
Yeah really nice stuff. How effective is torching as a paint-removal method?
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• #739
Thanks guys.
@fizzy.bleach pretty good, give it a wee toast, hit it with a wire brush and it flakes right off.
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• #740
Lush, really like how the asymmetrical stays have turned out.
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• #741
I’ve bought one of the Konga yokes that Hulsroy has used for his mtb in preparation for building frame no2.
I did think my next frame might be a mini velo and I could still do that with this yoke but I think putting it in a mtb frame might be a better use.
I’ve been missing having a coaster brake mtb so last week I stripped the commuter parts off my 1x1 and started doing a bit of klunker build on it but I think I’d be better building something specifically to use with a coaster.
Narrow rear end, my preferred Shimano coaster hub is 110mm oln as standard but I might go for 120mm so it could accommodate a fixed rear wheel if the notion took me.
Brazed on anchor point for the brake arm.
Double top tube.
Slack head angle, probably just a straight 1 1/8” headtube, don’t need to go tapered or anything.
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• #742
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• #743
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• #744
juuuusst soooo much this! wow!!!! SUPERB!
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• #745
I definitely want to do a mini velo I’m just not sure it’d make the best use of the yoke.
I mocked up the speedway frame I got from my colleague with some wee wheels to see if it’d work as either a mini velo or a cycle truck type thing recently...
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• #746
The angles for the cycletruck don't look to far off
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• #747
Yeah, with 20" at both ends it seems really slack.
Frame mounted rack if I go cycletruck?
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• #748
Wacky as hell - needless to say I love it.
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• #749
Building a bike around a yoke?? A new low for the forum
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• #750
Kidding this will be awesome. As is every other build in this thread. Very jealous of your fire wielding abilities
For most things yeah, not for these seat stays though. It can only handle one angle.
I think the one I’ve been using is called tubemiter.exe, it’s pretty good. I like that it gives me a guide so I can confidently go in with a hacksaw knowing I’ll not cut too much out. Saves time over just filing especially with the thicker walled stuff for the stems.