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The Maison de la Photographie was worth a look a few years back, hopefully still so. It has a magnificently chilled roof terrace with decent grub so worth going late morning and grabbing lunch there. It's quite easy to miss and surrounded by kids who'll try and show you where it is for an inflated fee but google maps will be your friend in that situation.
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There's a place by one of the entrances to the Souk that slow cooks lamb (24 hours) in clay pots in an underground oven. You just buy by the kilo and eat it with bread and cumin salt. Beyond delicious. Think it's this place...
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Cant remember the name of it but there is an amazing restaurant run by a female collective, had great food there.
Also tangia (not tagine) in the main square.
If you want to buy amloo (aka Berber nutella) or argan oil dont do it on a tourist trip to the atlas mountains. These are fun informative excursions but wait to make your purchases in a supermarket and everything comes without the tourist mark up. So get out of the old quarter and into Marrakech proper for buying foods and spices.
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mrJL
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we're off to marrakesh in a week for a few days. any pro tips? what to avoid as much as what not to miss, and not just restaurants.