I am a frame builder AMA

I thought they existed only to make Bentley Components look good in the actually-making-stuff-you-can-buy stakes. Which ain't hard, admittedly.

Looks ugly and flimsy

any cutting-edge welders out there getting ready to weld a glass bike: https://phys.org/news/2019-03-welding-breakthrough.html

Options for a custom fork builder? (Uk) (steel)

Can’t find one to suit my spec..

Geoff Roberts?

Stayer Cycles or August Cycles

I’m tired, thank you, you did already recommend stayer, now messaged!

Anyone know of someone who would be willing and able to extend a fork steerer without completely removing it? - Think I’ve seen Hulsroy do it a few times, iirc.. but maybe it’s considered a ‘bodge’ So no one will do it for me professionally :)

I really wouldn't recommend doing this. It's a lot more than a "bodge" IMHO

Dave yates used to do it

What do you base this on?

I worked down with Geoff Roberts for a few years and he does tons of repairs. I've seen pretty much every bodge and failure that there is, and in my opinion, it will fail. Maybe not today or tomorrow but it will go and you'll wish you hadn't bodged it.

You have a butted end on a fork steerer for a reason. You would be welding (I'm presuming TIG) on the thinnest part of the steerer and it will create a weakness.

Just my opinion but I would always replace the whole steerer.

Hello there,

Not sure if this is the place to post this, but just looking for some advice/opinions.

I just bought a new steel frameset from a guy in the US. When it arrived it had some paint damage just below the seat collar (see attached).

I emailed him about it and stated that I was a bit concerned about it now being a spot susceptible to rust etc.

His response was as follows;

"The frame is dipped in a black ed coating prior to painting. The black ed finish is a corrosion preventative coating so there shouldn't be any more chance of rust there than if it had paint. The frame is masked off for paint under the seat collar so the frame finish is the same under the collar is it is under that spot where it chipped. You can see the black inside the seat tube and under the collar."

I have had a pretty good experience with the guy and if the damage is purely cosmetic, I am prepared to live with it as I really do not want to be returning this to the US.

Any thoughts/opinions?

1 Attachment

I weld the two tubes together somewhere between the headset cups where the stress is lower and I use an internal plug turned on a lathe to match the internal diameter of the two tubes meeting each other. It is likely stronger than a cast fork crown silver soldered in my opinion.
But anything done badly is obviously a bodge.

My thoughts are regardless of corrosion potential, you’ve got a chipped new frame. Are you chasing for at least a partial refund?
Otherwise, back it goes and a new one please

He offered a very small refund (about $40) which I, possibly prematurely, accepted.

It is playing on my mind a bit now and that's why I'm ascking on here.

Sending back to the US will be an absolute ballache.

I think it would be rather unfair to accept the sellers partial refund to only go back and say it's not good enough. If I sold something and it arrived damaged I would offer a part or full refund but once that was accepted I would consider the matter closed.

I agree. I probably shouldnt have been so quick to accept the small refund.

just touch it out with a bit of nail polish and job's a good'un

A sleeve will help but it still wouldn't be stronger than a brass brazed crown with a one piece (not cut and shut) steerer.

Each to their own man, let's agree to disagree. We all have our ideas and approach. I've got nothing but love for anyone building 👍

Is there anywhere online I can order seat binders?
I just need two. And don't need anything else right now to make up a Ceeway order.

I have two.

I'll be cutting a head tube so it will definitely need facing. I'm wondering how necessary it will be to ream it and same goes for the seat tube.
Its possible I can get away with not doing it and still have a headset/seatpost fit correctly? The tools are quite an investment but I'll try to borrow or pay someone to face the HT if that's all that needs doing

Cool I'll PM you :)

Sorry, I should definitely preface that with...

“I am not a frame builder but...”

I think as you’re using lugs (and therefor lower temperature) you might get away with not reaming the seattube.

You’ll probably get some corrosion inside it from soaking flux off but you can make a tool out of a mudguard stay and some wire wool/scotch pad etc that you put in a drill that should clean that up easily enough.

Might be the same story with reaming the headtube but if you’re getting it faced then you might as well get it reamed. It’s like, put 2 cutters on the tool instead of 1 cutter and 1 guide bush.