Dynamo Lights

Good point...is there a reason?

I would have thought it would be much cleaner on the back of the post that all

Maybe the reason why not to is obvious, but wouldn't the hole have made more sense in the back of the post not the front?

The original light on the post was a Supernova mounted on the saddle rails, the cable coming out of the rear would be really kinked, so we ran it out of the front up over the seatpost top. I’ll see if I have a picture somewhere.

nterested in trying this too.
Debating best place to drill, i.e. front / side / back and also would doing the same on a carbon post be certain death...

Don’t do carbon! Or cnc’d alloy or titanium. We had Parlee make us a custom seatpost once for rear lights. I think it was a drilled normal Parlee post that they then added some structure to?

The easiest post to do this to is a Thomson. You just have to drill thru the cradle and route it up the hollow seatpost. Make sure that you counter sink the hole thru the cradle and de-burr it.

Thanks for the tip.

I was considering doing it through the side of a Thomson or Ritchey Alloy post like you did for a post mount SON light as you did. Would these be suitable?

I guess if you go out the top you need to come back down the outside for a Son Seatpost light. One could mount on back of the saddle via rails with adaptor or drill through backplate on Brooks C15 all weather.

Don’t drill thru the side of a Thomson, it’ll crack. I’m not to familiar with the Ritchy posts manufacturing process so I’d prefer not to recommend it.

This is the original set up. It allowed us to mount a saddle bag low enough to have the light visible over it.

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Maybe this has been discovered before, but on the off-chance it hasn't: I recently learned that e-Tube Di2 wire is the same diameter as Schmidt coaxial (3mm).

This means Di2 wire cover kits should work for routing dyno cables neatly.

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It doesn’t hold al well as you’d like it to.

The Ultegra cable sheaths work great, I've had no issues with mine for 2 years. You must wipe down the frame with IPA just before applying though. It's the only way to get good adhesion.

(Isopropyl Alcohol - not beer)

Weird, I tried them on the fork of my Bob Jackson and I’ve had to replace it 3 times in 3 years. It might be that they’re following a curve? But it always starts peeling at the bottom and works it’s way up.

Ah. I have always wrapped the wire around the fork and used the channels for running the wire underneath the top tube. It's less likely to get jostled that way and take on far less water. I can see how you would have challenges.

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Looking to buy a dynamo for lights and devices.

SON28 vs SP DYNAMO PD-8X.

Is the SON really worth the extra cash?

The SON does about 30-60k before it needs a service, the SP around 10-15k. YMMV. Both are great and very reliable. Shimano does even cheaper than SP.

Ahh, good to know. Thanks.

The question might have been answered but I can’t find it: has anyone tried an AXA blue line 50 frontlight with the rear supernova one ? Thanks

I think the supernova rearlights don't have an inbuilt standlight? So only have that (pretty important imo) function with a supernova front?

You’re right and they don’t have same voltage as Busch and Muller ones I think. But I can’t find anything about the ax’s output though. And it does have a huge stand light on it

+1 for the di2 external cable tidy. My winter bike is externally wired and I had to replace one piece after 2 years.

No idea about electrics. Can tell you that the Axa blue line works nicely with a b&m topline though.

Yes.

50k service interval, 5 year warranty, most cases lighter, smoother running, max service cost £65 inc return postage, can actually be serviced...

This is the original set up. It allowed us to mount a saddle bag low enough to have the light visible over it.

Very nice. Is that the VO E3 mount?

Any seatposts in particular you'd say are better for drilling through the side?

Yup it’s the VO mount, I think they’re made by someone else in the PNW.

If you’re gonna drill thru a seatpost make sure it’s a forged aluminum one. So Nitto, Kalloy, VO etc. Make sure to countersink the hole and debur it. It might be easier to use a seatpost like the Thomson ones are that are hollow all the way up and just drill out the cradle and rout the cable out the head of the seatpost. Don’t drill thru the side of a Thomson seatpost, I’ve seen a few that cracked from trying to rout canti brake cables thru.

How do you deburr the inside?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkSJPAss3As