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Thanks for the advice mate :)
So the camera was set to aperture priority mode and I was shooting mostly at 1/1500 and metering for the lights - I thought this would give me nice, contrasty shots. But in most instances, the outcome was this ^^, or that:
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Crimson_Ghost
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With negatives, it's better to meter for the shadows. Modern pro film stocks will handle huge overexposure, but get grungy quickly if underexposed. It looks like that might have happened on a few of yours, and the scanner is trying to pull out detail that isn't there.
Always best to rate negative film at less than box speed just to help this a bit
TooTallTim
Let me first say I think there's some really cool shots!
So the EOS 300 can do 1/2000 ..was it really so bright you had to shoot at that speed and stop down completely??
Half of them don't look like it - especially not the last two you posted.
Anyways here's a few thoughs, maybe helpful -
..if you're absolutely certain it's going to be bright as fuck then yes, get 160 not 400.
160 isn't that much less sensitive than 400 though.
You can shoot 400 set at 200 or 100 (just hack the DX code) and some would argue you should do so, anyway. Remember it's not like with digital where your highlights blow out rather quickly - with colour negative film it's quite the opposite, you want to 'build up' details in the shadows.
You can get a camera body that can do 1/4000 or 1/8000.
You can also just focus not on the subject but quite a bit closer to the camera - if you are forced to stop down anyway and are shooting at top speed your subject will be sharp, and this will stop making the foreground look awkwardly unsharp and can helpa bit with making stuff that's far away razor sharp. Keep the 1/3 -2/3 rule in mind.
Good luck, enjoy, and keep up the good work!