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Thanks for that info. I will look at the Phocas hinges to check if there are any problems with the position of the screw holes. I am a bit worried about handling the weight of the window while fixing the last screws. I am thinking of rigging a sling from a ladder outside the window. It is a bit tricky as the one in the photo is above the porch roof and one of the others is above a big bay window.
This might be a silly question - do they come in matching pairs when you buy them or do I have to order top/bottom or left/right ones?I found this naff video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LKQ4NpViQJ where the Handyman cuts out the scenes where he almost drops the window outside.
Charlie_L-
If they are large/heavy or difficult access (over a side return with glass roof) it's really a 2 man job. I've pulled some stunts with rope to ensure a window can't fall 3 stories but it's nothing I'd want to describe in a court of law!
With the screw holes you can usually drill a pilot for the new screw positions if they are different from the existing.
People worry about double glazing but it's probably less complicated than a sash window.
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Screw holes being in a different position can be advantageous, because you get fresh plastic for the screw to go into, not a possibly stripped hole.
Even hinges that can be opened either way come as a pair. Ones that only open way come as left/right, top/bottom pair. Avocet did accidentally send me a pair of two right hand hinges in a larger order, so check before starting the work.
At 8 years old, I'd assume your windows have the glazing beads on the inside, so reasonable access to remove the beads and remove the glass... no fannying about outsidd on ladders with slings. With 3 reasonably large windows to do, I'd invest in a couple of chisels, a glazing shovel and maybe a cheap suction cup and remove the glass. That way your not holding a heavy sash and glass from the first floor. Plus it has been known for people to fit longer replacement screws or pilot drill too far and catch the edge of the glass which doesn't end well.
With the glass removed, its obviously lighter and so much easier to hold onto.
https://www.windowrepairshop.co.uk/epages/es115683.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es115683_shop/Products/C139 -
I found this naff video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LKQ4NpViQJc
where the Handyman cuts out the scenes where he almost drops the window outside.Link was missing the 'C' from the end.
By the the sound of his comments at the end, he found it more difficult than he envisaged. Personally, at that size of window he's working on, it's borderline worth taking the glass out 😕
If your reasonably strong, competent with a screwdriver, you have good working access and a friend to pass the screw you dropped then leave it in. At least with side hung, you can rest some of the weight on the bottom of the frame.Remove it, if there's a chance of dropping it on someone or something expensive below, or your your just unsure of handling the weight in that position.
Airhead
user69121
These are the friction stays that I prefer to fit, as the spring in the top cap seems to work nicely.
https://www.avocet-hardware.co.uk/collections/friction-stays/products/phocas-friction-stays?variant=42298148421
I feel that the easy clean and egress hinges may be more prone to wear, as the plastic sliders tend to travel further compared to a standard opener. Obviously egress hinges serve a safety purpose, opening the sash wide and off to the side so you can climb out (rooms at the end of a corridor, away from exit doors). Easy clean also open wide, but the sash ends up more central so you can easily reach the outer pane... If you dont need 90 degree opening for easy cleaning, I'd go with standard ones, with a bonus of them being cheaper too.
Did you see post Post #16665 a few days back. Being side hung, yours are less of a juggle against gravity.
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.9..Secure top hinge with two screws
.10. Secure bottom hinge with two screws
.11. Test close
.12. Fit reminder of screws