-
• #677
Not an answer to your question but please be careful when making forks. If your forks fail, dental surgery is probably the best out come!
I'm not try to put you off but it's really important they are done properly 👍
-
• #678
Try a different headset. The Cane creek ones seem to be a really tight fit and if that's loose, you have a problem!
-
• #679
Yeah, since posting that I found a nice fork on eBay for less than I reckon the parts for a fork would cost me so I’ve bought that.
I would like to make one at some point but further testing of things of my own construction first is probably a good idea.
-
• #680
It’s very easy to change how the reading looks when taking a photo but I’d say this looks more like 30.1 if even that than 30.2.
It’s a very cheap headset and I maybe remember having bought a similarly cheap and nasty headset for a bike before and ended up not using it because it was too loose a fit in the frame.
1 Attachment
-
• #681
Would it be possible to roll out this dent in a titanium top tube?
-
• #682
I’ve heard of people laying brass inside oversize head tubes and reaming back to size, I also think Chris King do headsets in .1 and .2 oversize as well
-
• #683
Thinking of moving the chain stay bridge a couple of mm towards the bb.
Good, bad, ok idea? From what I’ve read it’s structural function is debated.
Any input appreciated!
-
• #684
I don't see why you can't. I guess you are just looking for extra clearance?
-
• #685
Yes sir! You are correct :-)
-
• #686
Done lots of these, usually when moving a rear from 126 > 130. A lot of people don't but I'd always take out the old bridges and put new ones in.
It's definitely do able....just make sure you put it back in straight 😁
-
• #687
Great! Will see to that it’s straight :-) thanks
-
• #688
would like to di2 (holes in DT/ST/Chainstay) a mechanical frame. frame is Genesis volare 953. do-able or stupid?
-
• #689
Should really be reinforced, I use washers to great effect.
-
• #690
We measured deflection on our surface plate with some weights hanging off the back of the rear end of a frame, with and without a bridge. There wasn't any difference. Obvs not particularly thorough, but I don't think they make any difference
-
• #691
Seat stay bridges presumably more so?
I have a frame that has decent clearance for 42c tyres but rizla at the bridge. I'd like to replace it with one which has a guard mount but wouldn't mind just removing it and putting an m5 boss on each stay and then using a removable guard mount bridge as seen on some Cannondales but I don't want to turn a nice 853 frame into a wet noodle. -
• #692
Is there anywhere in London I can get rent free oxygen and propane?
-
• #693
I just put an order in order for oxygen from adamsgas.co.uk. Only £12 delivery in South London but it is a bit more in central. Hobby size 9l bottle was around £40 with 55 deposit.
A lot of places seemed to charge £60 delivery so can make a good saving.
Propane you can get from most garages
-
• #694
I'm using Hobbyweld oxygen, just the standard one, not the Ultra or whatever its called
Seems to be a a few suppliers in London,
https://hobbyweld.co.uk/find-an-agent/?lookup=london
I was £35 for a bottle swap today, think the deposit on the first bottle was around £50ish.
-
• #695
Get the biggest bottle you possibly can, rent free is a false economy if you have to keep swapping.
-
• #696
Thanks pet. It’s your fault I’m trying this!
-
• #697
Thanks all
-
• #698
I get the blame for all sorts..
-
• #699
Nearly 6 years ago when I visited your shop... sort of planted the seed
1 Attachment
-
• #700
Just checked my invoices, £65 deposit on the hobbyweld oxygen.
I got my first one at the end of November and have been trying to do some brazing every day I’m not working and quite often in the morning when I’m working backshift too so I think that’s lasted alright.
Just over £30 worth of gas lasted me 2 months = 50p a day. I’d looked into renting a big cylinder and was getting prices around 50p a day just for the rental, I’d have had to pay for the gas and the the places I spoke to wanted like £50-75 for delivery!
I can pick up the hobbyweld oxygen in my wee car, wouldn’t want to try putting anything much bigger than that in it though.
Fuuuu....!
Took my frame to work yesterday and used the Park headtube reamer/facer to tidy up the headtube and now my 1” headset cups are a push fit. Like, by hand.
The reamer was the right one, 30.1mm marked on it, OD of headset cups should be 30.2 but I haven’t checked this.
The headset I tried in it last night was a cheap steel one and I’d actually ordered a nicer sealed bearing Tange Falcon earlier in the day yesterday so I’ll see how that is when it arrives and hopefully it’s a bit of a better fit.
Guess I should measure the cups and frame to see where the over/under size is but is there something I’ve likely done wrong?
I took the reamer out and replaced it with the pilot bush as soon as I’d gotten the it far enough into the headtube that the facing cutter was contacting the edge of the headtube.
In terms of fixes if the other headset is just as loose, I was thinking I could lay down a layer of silver or brass inside the headtube. Probably silver as it’ll be easier to get a nice thin layer. I could ream the headtube with an adjustable hand reamer after laying the silver down (what I should have done in the first place I guess).
Then I thought, the cheap headset has steel cups, I could just silver braze them into the headtube. The frame is going to be for track and summer fixed use so it’s unlikely I’ll ever wear the headset out and it seems like doing this is probably a bit easier and a bit more likely to have me end up with a usable frame than the lining and teaming method.
Thoughts?