Home DIY

Double post fail

If I chop off the top bar of this bed and stuff a couple of bungs in the top, is it vastly going to screw over the structural bits of it? Incredible illustrational photos below.

1 Attachment

If the small bars were also very welded, not just stuck in there on one side,
I would say go for it. Like this, not so much.
But I am not an expert and like stable beds.

Cut the verticals and re-weld it in a lower position if you have to move that bar out of the way, just taking off the horizontal piece will likely compromise the structure.
Is it worth messing with?

Don't know about where you live, but around here houses can settle causing windows to stick and not work properly.

Thats were I'd be heading, unscrew one of your hinges and take it with you to screwfix to make sure the new one will fit.

Quite satisfying

2 Attachments

Picked up a cheap belt sander that has clamps to fix it on its back to a bench. Made a clunky/beefy stand to hold it upright as a belt grinder.

1 Attachment

Can I run a hose from kitchen mixer tap, out the window, down two stories to a car park? Or will the valves explode or something?

Fantastic... great diy engineering

Maybe one for the shed thread, but if I'm building a lean-to against a wall that's not mine, is there a decent way to seal the roof to the wall (probably just ply/felt) that doesn't involve cutting into the wall (and hence a party wall agreement)?

Does it have to be a waterproof seal against the wall? If the roof of the building has a bit of an overhang you may not need it.

There's not much of an overhang, a couple of inches, and my roof would be about 1.5m below it, so I think water ingress could happen without a seal. There's the self adhesive flashing, not sure if painting bitumen on their wall would require a PWA.

I was kind of wondering if anything in your shed would be affected by the water running down the wall - as long as nothing was actually touching the wall and you have a deck that gets your stuff off the ground I would think it would be ok unless you're trying to seal out humidity as well. My preference is to not attach new to old unless absolutely necessary.

The friction hinge is broken, but should be repairable. The top fixed section on the frame has a top cap receptacle to receive the location lug atop the opening sash... The two parts mating together should pull the top of the sash against the frame. But metal type top caps often open up when the lug hits it and doesn't slide into its closed position. Some cheaper plastic top caps just snap off.

I prefer to fit Avocet Phocas hinges, as they have a sprung top cap and a good guarantee. However you need to pay attention to positioning a replacement hinge so the sash sits at the correct height in the frame.

It may be easier to do a like for like replacement if there's a name on them.

1. Your window is top hung (hinges at the top and handle at the bottom).
   
2. Measure the length of the hinge on the frame. They are normal expressed as 8,10, 12, 16, 18, 24 inches.
   
3. Measure the width of the track on the frame 17-18 mm is standard, whilst 15-16mm is less common slim line
   
4. They come in 13 and 17mm variations, of stack height. Which if the thickness of the hinge stack when it's closed together in the gap between sash and frame.
   
   
   

You don't want to drop the window, so I'd suggest taking the glass out of larger windows, then you can hold onto the frame easily. But for a smaller window that's not going to be too heavy and awkward, wrap one of these around it a couple of times to use as a handle. Don't use suckers on patterned glass or rely on them to stay in place with holding a sash whilst your changing hinges!
https://www.screwfix.com/p/cambuckle-tie-down-straps-2-5m-x-25mm-2-pack/87355

Reusing screw holes often needs larger diameter screws to get a good bite as the thread comes away when you remove the screws. So grab a pack of 19 and 25mn of these.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-self-drilling-pan-head-screws-4-2-x-25-x-100-pack/2929h

1. Open window and wrap your straps around the sash. Take note whether the hinge top cap is hard up against the top of the frame, or a gap. Remove all but one screw from either side of the frame.

2. Remove the remaining screws then push the window outwards to free the sash complete with hinges from the frame.

3. Collapse the hinges to make it easier to bring the sash indoors.

4. With the hinges closed. Measure how much the top cap is sticking up, because you'll want the new hinges at the same height.

5. Offer your new hinges up to the frame to see if there's screw holes through the slotted holes in the hinge. Mark and pilot drill if needed, as doing this whilst holding the sash in place is fun.

6. Make sure your new hinges are opening the correct way. Some can be opened backwards and won't close correctly when fitted.

7. Fit new hinges to the sash, using the slotted holes. Close hinge and check the height of the top cap from part 4. Fix remaining screws.

8. Pass sash back through the window opening and extend the hinges and get them to sit into the frame. Get a screw in one side to take the weight, so you can sort the other side.

9. Position the hinge at the required height and fix with a couple of screws.
   Set the height of the second hinge and fix with a couple of screws.

10. Close the window and ensure it closes and locks correctly

11. Fit remaining screws to frame.

Fair point, it would probably be fine, especially if I clad the interior with osb

Fortunately I've not put cork down on the floor yet.
After the last couple of weeks watching my kids in the bath, I think it would be nuts.

Marine ply. That'd work right? Any body seen anything with just bare ply flooring bfor bathroom? Am I mad?

What about Karndean or Amtico?

Marine ply base then glued vinyl planks. We've got it in our bathroom and it looks great...

I can't speak for bathrooms specifically but when I first moved in put down marine ply to replace the lino and mismatched laminate. It was very useful for finding out where the damp was originating from as it rotted from the underside!

It did look lovely though, but I definitely wouldn't use it again anywhere where water/damp might be an issue

Hmm.
Kids really impact on your future decisions.

Recommendations for a home external cctv system?
3 or 4 cameras with usable day/night defenition.
Viewable on phone whilst away.

The majority of failed friction hinges that I see is down to neglect.

An occasional clean off with a stiff paintbrush to remove dust and spiders webs. Followed by some silicon spray for the frame track where the slider goes up and down and around the top cap. Some 3in1 oil for the hinge pivot points.

Whilst your at it, give the locking mechanism a squirt of 3in1 as well.

Maybe cheap vinyl untill the rugrats get it together?

Maybe you intended this for @Quincy; regardless, my guess was related to what can happen around here where we have soils with high expansive clay content and wildly fluctuating temps and precipitation.

I have PoE Hikvision CCTV cameras that record to my NAS, can view them anywhere as long as there is an internet connection. Downside, they are spendy compared to an off the shelf solution on Amazon.