Took my frame to work yesterday and used the Park headtube reamer/facer to tidy up the headtube and now my 1” headset cups are a push fit. Like, by hand.
The reamer was the right one, 30.1mm marked on it, OD of headset cups should be 30.2 but I haven’t checked this.
The headset I tried in it last night was a cheap steel one and I’d actually ordered a nicer sealed bearing Tange Falcon earlier in the day yesterday so I’ll see how that is when it arrives and hopefully it’s a bit of a better fit.
Guess I should measure the cups and frame to see where the over/under size is but is there something I’ve likely done wrong?
I took the reamer out and replaced it with the pilot bush as soon as I’d gotten the it far enough into the headtube that the facing cutter was contacting the edge of the headtube.
In terms of fixes if the other headset is just as loose, I was thinking I could lay down a layer of silver or brass inside the headtube. Probably silver as it’ll be easier to get a nice thin layer. I could ream the headtube with an adjustable hand reamer after laying the silver down (what I should have done in the first place I guess).
Then I thought, the cheap headset has steel cups, I could just silver braze them into the headtube. The frame is going to be for track and summer fixed use so it’s unlikely I’ll ever wear the headset out and it seems like doing this is probably a bit easier and a bit more likely to have me end up with a usable frame than the lining and teaming method.
Fuuuu....!
Took my frame to work yesterday and used the Park headtube reamer/facer to tidy up the headtube and now my 1” headset cups are a push fit. Like, by hand.
The reamer was the right one, 30.1mm marked on it, OD of headset cups should be 30.2 but I haven’t checked this.
The headset I tried in it last night was a cheap steel one and I’d actually ordered a nicer sealed bearing Tange Falcon earlier in the day yesterday so I’ll see how that is when it arrives and hopefully it’s a bit of a better fit.
Guess I should measure the cups and frame to see where the over/under size is but is there something I’ve likely done wrong?
I took the reamer out and replaced it with the pilot bush as soon as I’d gotten the it far enough into the headtube that the facing cutter was contacting the edge of the headtube.
In terms of fixes if the other headset is just as loose, I was thinking I could lay down a layer of silver or brass inside the headtube. Probably silver as it’ll be easier to get a nice thin layer. I could ream the headtube with an adjustable hand reamer after laying the silver down (what I should have done in the first place I guess).
Then I thought, the cheap headset has steel cups, I could just silver braze them into the headtube. The frame is going to be for track and summer fixed use so it’s unlikely I’ll ever wear the headset out and it seems like doing this is probably a bit easier and a bit more likely to have me end up with a usable frame than the lining and teaming method.
Thoughts?