Home DIY

Going into the wooden skirting board. Using no-more-nails but the skirting is pretty old and wonky (as are the walls) so needs a fair few pins.

I would think the titan one would do the job then...

Cable management.

YouTube. Include "productivity" as a search term*.

*it's internet for not playing computer games

Zip ties and a label printer.

For PC cleaning I just open it and spray a load of compressed air everywhere. Only takes a couple of minutes.

Does it have to work afterwards? ;)

Alright kiddos this is pretty basic stuff but its been eluding me like crazy.

I've got a few masonry walls with chunks out of them, missing skirting, that sort of thing. I also need some cables hidden. Some of the chunks can be filled with polyfilla type stuff, but others are large chunks of plaster off the wall.

What's the best approach here? Do I sand the walls, get someone to skim, then paint then skirting? Can I fit skirting myself?

What's the best approach here?

Drill / chisel / chase the runs for the cables you want. Then do a rough tidy with some filler. Then pay a plasterer to finish the walls - check with them if they need any other prep. Then paint and fit the skirting - if it is new I'd be tempted to paint the walls once cured and paint the skirting before fitting it and tidy up the wall / skirting as needed.

Also when you say cables I'm assuming you mean speaker / Internet etc. If its electrical /power cables then you'd be best using an electrical person. You could always check with them first and do all the chasing for the cable runs so they don't have to.

I'm painting over lining paper (dark green).

Some of the sections over the rad have curled up / separated.

What's the best way to make them flat?

Cheers.

Pic2 = very close up
Pics1&3 = more accurate representation irl

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Straight edge skim?

Sand with a wall sander...i've just modded my titan wet or dry vac https://www.instructables.com/id/5-Drywall-Dust-Water-Filter-Gadget-for-Shop-Vacuum/

Google isn't bringing anything up for Straight edge skim. What do you do?

The wall has lining paper, so I don't want to strip it, so can't sand it.

Get some border adhesive, usually available in a small tube. Take a filler knife or scraper blade and gently run it under the paper to lift the edge slightly. Using a syringe or if you are lucky the pointed nozzle on your border adhesive squeeze a load of adhesive under the paper. Rub the paper lightly with a sponge and thoroughly clean all the adhesive that comes out of the crack. The better you clean off the glue the better your paint will look. Leave it to dry and you should have solved your problem.

You can bodge it with super glue if you are in a desperate hurry. Not recommended for a lot of reasons. I have a lovely little tool called a seam roller, not only does it help to do this job but it helps to make sure it never happens in the first place!

I think they mean use a straight edge to skim across it with polyfilla or something similar.

Ah sorry, in reply to your post to bleakrefs

https://www.plasterers1stopshop.co.uk/straight-edges-amp-rules-c-317

No idea about your walls. I hate lining paper.

Cheers!

Thought I'd mentioned this here. Looking to convert a wet or dry vac too filter fine dust. Am angle grinding a kitchen foor to remove the debris left stuck on and to level the kitchen floor a bit. To then pour self levelling compound. The filter, even with bags was destroyed quite quickly, so thought I.d try this

Tried this on my titan TB430
https://www.instructables.com/id/5-Drywall-Dust-Water-Filter-Gadget-for-Shop-Vacuum/

Had to use 68mm gutter pipe and the thing is still blowing water out of the exhaust. Also getting dust coming out. Any ideas?

Amaze. Thank you. I never considered chasing the cable runs myself but it all makes sense when you write it up like that. There are a few electrical cables so I'll get the channels chased then get an electrical ninja in to fit them. It is going to be a dusty weekend!

You're welcome. Don't try to do the least with this job. Use the filler knife gently to see if the rest of the seam is waiting to lift before you glue it all.

Window trimming question.

I've just had some nice enough PVC sash windows installed and the wall skimmed. The units are thicker than what went before, and rather than being set slightly into the wall they are now flush with the inside wall. I could just fit architrave around them but then when it comes to fitting blinds and/or curtains they will not be able to block out the light from the sides.

Any tips? Are there some off the peg mouldings I can buy that will be deep enough, or will I need to bodge it up by myself?

Laser rangefinder/measure - worthwhile or fad? Won't be working alone so tape measure is still fine, but probably moving house so want to measure rooms a lot.
If worthwhile, is there any reason to spend £££ on a brand-name one is a generic one good enough?

I've almost certainly got one you can borrow.
Just got to remember where it is.

uPVC window help.
I moved into a new (old!) house recently and my bathroom window is not closing at the top. It was very hard to close it - it was like there's an issue with the runners.
The bathroom is absolutely baltic and I would like to try to fix today/this weekend.
Anyone have any idea what to do? I don't want to open it again until I have a rough idea in case I can't close it again...

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Good chance the hinge is goosed, you'll need to open it to work out the size to order a new one. Whilst you're at it, replace the other side too.

Thanks for the speedy reply! Is it likely I can remove it, buy a replacement and fit the replacement all in one day? i.e. are the hinges easy to come by? If so, where would you recommend? (I'm in Romford)
Thanks again,
Joe

OK so this looks promising
Thanks!

They're pretty cheap (£20 if that) and very useful for quick room measurements. Generic ones seem fine. I don't regret getting one.