Home DIY

Mortise sash lock.

They come on various back set sizes (edge of the frame to centre of the spindle/key hole)

The key throws the lower bolt to lock the door.
The handle pulls back the (missing) latch.

Wonderful, thanks so much!

10 boxes of Edwardian parquet flooring collected from Sydenham this morning (from freecycle - looks to be oak).
Going to use it for the hallway.

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^ that's a pretty good haul

No pun intended.

BBB Qualitäts NÜSSE from Napoli

lol

How do u intend to remove bitumen? I have heard it can a messy job involving heat gun and scraper. @7ven

Knock it square(ish) with a scraper so it doesn't rock, then bond it straight to the floor with the correct bonding agent and then sand flat.

I've seen some videos where they just lay it down with the bitumen still on (the bottom) so that's what we'll do I think. My goodness, I've been looking at laying parquet floor videos all evening and it looks far from easy!

Dammit's trials with laying reclaimed parquet in the hallway are well documented upthread...

Looks great now though.

I wondered if you would have any luck using a sacrificial sliding mitre saw blade and a some kind of jig with that sort of thing, just to trim a very thin slice of wood from the bottom of each block along with the bitumen. Might make for less sanding in the long run?

We have a built in wardrobe that just consisted of 3 sliding doors that are floor to almost full heightC top blocked off my a fake wooden ‘wall’ to make it boxed in.

When we moved in the old (think self made) wooden frame inside was moldy and the back wall was also moldy we ripped it all out, mold sprayed and cleaned the back wall, then during decoration gave the decorators good anti mold paint for the back wall

Then we instaled IKEA elvarli post mount shelving.

The mold has returned and taken over the back wall skirting board and taking out all the shoes at the back bottom of the wardrobe with it.

https://imgur.com/gallery/uqlhU1f

Images above,
Whats trademan do i need to properly solve this?

Likely outcomes, Replace skirting boards? clean skirting boards every month or two and keep nothing at floor level? Burn the flat down?

Everything above seems fine and the rest of the room isnt damp.

Wall is dry except for skirting board and the floor right by the skirting boards.

Its an external wall with no ventilation.

Edit:
https://imgur.com/gallery/Y62eshb

We had one of the cubord doors off the rails and up against the wall... and well, its bad behind that.

As soon as we reach the ‘proper room’ it all goes away, at least to the eye. It looks like maybe the skirting boards in this area are just up against raw wall, of some sort of gap? There doesnt appear to be plasted behind it

Anyone built their own fitted wardrobes? I'm sure someone on here did. Found a place in Bristol that will do custom cut panels on a CNC machine and quite tempted by the prospect of filling the wall with chimney stack with cupboards/shelves. Looking for good guides or reading on frame construction.

Hard luck in the mould. On past experience stopping it returning is more about environment than replacing stuff (though cleaning everything with vinegary water can help). Ultimately if the area is warm, ventilated and fairly dry mould won't return. If it isn't, it will. Mebbie get some of the moisture absorbant packs to put under there, and try to keep the room warm.

I wondered if you would have any luck using a sacrificial sliding mitre saw blade and a some kind of jig with that sort of thing, just to trim a very thin slice of wood from the bottom of each block along with the bitumen. Might make for less sanding in the long run?

You need to sand them anyway - it's not a huge amount of extra work to sand out a slightly wonky/variable surface given that you're going over the whole floor no-matter what.

Crumbly plasterboard.
Out of 6 of those self drive plaster board fixings, 3 have just crumbled the wall around it.

Is that wet and fix any good? I can't redrilling new holes as they're for shelves....

What's other options?

Fill, bang the fixings in let them cure, hang shelf?

Temperature is the issue i think. Its the furthest point from the thermostat, its an old council flat, and it has a single radiator the other wise of the room.

We run a dehumidifier but maybe its too cold to have much effect it does fill up though when we do run it

I would run a fan heater over it to dry it out. it could be a lack of circulation.
Check to see if the wall is significantly cold.

Use lots of epoxy?

how bad is it + what are you putting on the shelf?

I have two like this
Books. But not loads. Maybe pictures.

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Should have and will from now on use gripit self drives.

I have. There are lots of videos on youtube floating around of joiners making these kind of things, all sorts of ways of doing it, the most basic would be screwing the panels together from the bottom and top faces which will be hidden anyway. I'll list a few things that come to mind based on my experiences in no particular order.

-Use wood glue for all the joints, it will be too flimsy with must mechanical fasteners

-Typically made with 18mm mdf for the carcassing, with the back being thinner. 6mm is probably fine unless you plan on kicking the back out. Try and have at least one fixed shelf in there to help it keep its shape

-Make sure you size it to account for all wonkyness and curvyness of the alcove. Also take into account that you will have to push it around a corner to get it in. You can then close the gap off with some scribed strips or something like that.

-Square is everything. Use clamping squares and measure the diagonals when glueing it up.

-Make a plinth for it all to sit on first and get it level in all directions using little packer pieces until its just right, then screw it down to the floor.

-Painting takes ages. But if you're going for mdf, Acrlyic primer undercoat will seal it. It will raise the "grain" so light sanding after to get it smooth, especially the edges, then two coats of whatever it is you like. I went for water based satin (both Johnstones and Leyland trade have been good for me). Will need at least two coats.

-Things get heavy very quickly, things can get awkward if you're on your own

As a cheaper alternative to CNC company, you could ask B&Q to cut the panel up for you? My local one is usually accurate to the mm. If you go down this route tak ea tape measure with you and check though, I've had some shitty experiences using Selco panel cutting service.

Re the mouldy wardrobe. Take everything off that wall?
Lift the skirting.
Wash with bleach.
Dry it. Really dry it.

Airbrick?

Isn't that just plaster straight onto breeze block? Standard plugs should work - the self drive ones are for plasterboard