Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

24 hole rim and use alternate holes

Plus drillium benefits

Any others?

I expect some of the Chinese shops would do 12H to order. Bear in mind that the Shamal 12s and Corima 12H use heavy spokes, and you'll want to as well unless you're very light. Presumably the hub is already keyholed for Sapim CX or DT New Aero 3mm wide spokes.
In general, I'd suggest that it's not worth trying to shoehorn this hub into a wheel unless you really know exactly what you're doing, there's a reason why very few wheels are under 16H, and those which are are factory built with rims and spokes specifically selected for the purpose.

DT350 / CX-Ray / Kinlin XR31T.

Anything wrong here?
Is there a forum-approved cheap alternative to the Sapims?
Do I want to go J-bend or straight pull?

That's exactly the same wheel I used for 3xTCR and 2xTABR and would still be rolling today if some cunt hadn't driven into the back of me. Always J-bend.

Is there a forum-approved cheap alternative to the Sapims?

CNSpoke and Pillar are both OK, not sure if the saving is enough to be called cheap if you're still getting the ~ 2.3 x 0.9 aero ones

Do I want to go J-bend or straight pull?

Depends. The pros and cons are well rehearsed, personally I'd go straight pull. The utility value of having (j-bend) spokes which can be replaced in an emergency by almost any bike shop in the world is substantially overstated.

I disagree but then I run properly built 32h wheels so I likely won't need to replace spokes if they did break anyway.

Disc wheels. Trailing spokes heads in as per Shimanos instructions or not?

1 Attachment

Yes

I gave up trying to find 12h rims. I used a 24hh 88mm deep rim instead. The problem a spoke went in the middle.

The Corina wheels use paired spoking. I'll rebuild the rear with thicker spokes without interlacing.

Or no. Take your pick, it doesn't actually make any material difference.

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/14407069/incontext/

Thanks. I'd already done the rear before I thought to check so I'll just leave it as it is.

the Shimano way increases clearance to the caliper when braking a bit. Some calipers are wide.

I'm building a 24h 2x rear wheel for a fixed gear at the moment. I've run into an issue:
Although I'm using the same length spokes left and right, the spokes are not even in tension after lacing the wheel and putting some tension in by bringing them to the same thread engagement.
Strangely it's the DS (free) leading and NDS (fixed) trailing spokes that are really tight compared to the rest.
I've searched the web and couldn't really come up with an explanation.
I'm using a generic Bitex hub. I tried to look for an uneven offset of spoke hole drillings, but can't really measure it properly.
Is there any other explanation for my problem? I'm pretty sure the lacing is correct.

Sounds like one side (when viewed from DS) is laced with its trailling spokes heads in, while the other (when the wheel is flipped) is laced with its trailling spokes heads out.

If they're loads out then usually means you've laced it wrong, so the hub is kinda twisted wrong on one side, so they're in the correct hole on the rim but probably one hole wrong on one side of the hub, if you can figure it out you can relace one side. Maybe also check you've not laced an offset rim backwards.

The trailing spokes are heads out on both sides. If you flip the wheel, the trailing spokes on both sides are heads in.

That shouldn't make much of a difference anyway.

I've checked the lacing and it is correct. I'm using a R460 rim from DT Swiss, so no offset there.

1 Attachment

Then that's the problem. Trailling rear spokes on the DS should be heads in regardless of which way the wheel is flipped.
The NDS should appear to be laced 'backwards' when viewed from DS so when you flip it, it's laced the correct way.
Would advise relacing so trailling spokes on DS are heads in because (due to offset, bracing angle and how they interact with leading spokes at their crossing) they can deal with more load... Unless wheel is built for skidding, in which case the way you've laced it will better deal with sudden stops from the hub.

Are you sure it's correct though, because if it was then it wouldn't be acting all weird. Have a look at the 4 "key" spokes around the valve hole, so on one side the one to the left of the hole, then next but one the other side, look at the hub where they are laced, then making a note of them, flip the wheel and look at their opposite spokes, now they're going left of valve hole and two holes to the right. You need to look at the hub where these 4 spokes go, they're kinda opposite holes but offset so they meet the rim in the right place, sounds like on one side you've gone one hole wrong, probably the second side you laced but that may depend on your lacing method. Check that on the second side the opposite spoke is slightly closer to its hole in the rim than the flip side. Does all that make any sense? I'm still half asleep.

Just seen the picture, looks OK but hard to tell, doesn't look massively out so probably not what I'm attempting to describe, which ends up with some spokes really tight and some super loose.

Side we're looking at in the pic (if DS) needs re-lacing with opposite heads in/out. Other side is correct.

I thought it doesn't really matter where the trailing and leading spokes go...
The wheel is also not going to be flipped because it's only going to be used for singlespeed.
I don't think re-lacing one side would fix my problem.
I've edited the photo to show the tight and loose spokes.
Red ones are tight, the rest is loose.
It's always the inner ones of the groups of four.

1 Attachment

I think that's what happens when you do what I said, only time I've done it was about a hundred wheels ago, on more or less the first one I built for myself, so memory is hazy, but some spokes were tight, some loose, in a pattern of sorts.

How big is the tension difference?