• Gorilla tape is what @Howard recommends (he’s my go to guy on tubeless). I’ve always used Stan’s Tape but that’s because I had a big roll of the stuff.

  • Cheers, hoping for a budget noname thing. As dj would say, jfgi...

    Found this on weightweenies (I know, I know)

    Stan’s is Tesa 4289. Old ENVE and HED tape is Tesa 4298. Velocity Velotape is 3M 8898 (or very similar.)

  • @andyp just getting ready for brexogeddon, buying up things we’ll never be able to afford around April 1st.

  • I think he went tubeless last year on deep section lightbicycle carbon rims !

    Trufax. Been using a slightly heavyweight type of IRC 28c tyre, and I really like it.

  • Yep, Tesa tape is what was recommended to me.

  • Gorilla tape is fine - a bit heavier than Tesa but easier to work with my experience - it gives no shits if you are slapdash about cleaning before application for example.

    Just buy a big wide roll of it then trim it down on the roll with a stiff sharp knife if you want an odd size like 27mm. Try not to lose any skin :)

  • I've done some recently by just tearing it at the start the right width, tears off all the way round the same width, slightly messier but easier and works fine, if you tear it the right width you can't tell the difference.

  • Absorbs all your sealant tho

  • Yeah you can just snip the first inch or so at the right width and then tear the rest - the layup appears to be horizontal so it tears nice and straight.

  • Maybe a bit - I can't say that's ever caused me any real-world problems though.

  • I've just set my archetypes up tubeless using green polyester powder coating masking tape following the recommendation from a friend. It worked great, the 25mm roll was the perfect width Anthe adhesive is light enough to not gunk up your rims like gorilla tape.

  • Anthe adhesive is light enough to not gunk up your rims like gorilla tape.

    I’ve never found this to be a problem in the real world - why would the tape ever come off?

  • Tesa 4289

    Could be so that tape definitely goes all the way across the rim bed, including the wells for the tyre beads. Having started using narrow tape, I now work on the 'wider the better' assumption.

  • For me, because it stopped sealing properly. As for absorption, well, just makes stuff messy and requires slightly more regular topups.

    Basically, I would never recommend grilla tape over other cheap and easily available generic strapping tapes, not disputing that it works.

  • Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again"

  • including the wells

    Ah of course, surface of a 25mm internal will be more. Ta.

  • As for absorption, well, just makes stuff messy and requires slightly more regular topups.

    This is silly without some objective data showing some dramatic performance issues.

    I can buy gorilla tape from the supermarket.

    But yeah use whatever works and is to hand. I remember someone on here used electrical tape, something I thought might never work but apparently it did.

  • I've never noticed it be a problem either. I just tear it with my fingers from the start too. You could also use the clear gorilla tape on big rims with a cut out and put lights in your tyres, because reasons.

  • 27 tape on 25 rim should be perfect. Tape a bit wider than the tire always worked better for me, some combinations are pretty hard to make it work with smaller tape

  • Don't know if this has been posted here already but good advice...
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXbqjzEkcHA

  • What's that pathetic excuse for a pump he's using?

  • Is tyre bead wax a thing now?! WTF.

    Funny video. Can't believe people make this stuff but fair play it's slick.

    Pro-tip though, in case anyone copies what he's done.

    Don't put sealant in until the tyre has snapped on to the bead on both sides, and will keep pressure for at least a few minutes. If it's still gushing air like his is even fully mounted something is still very wrong and needs fixing. Usually with another layer of tape.

  • As above. However there cone a point with some tyres like the padrone where you get fed up of adding layers of tape and just deal with the mess.

    Tess 4289 with what I use and it's cheap.

  • I need some debugging of my tubeless setup attempt. I'm gonna guess the answer is add more tape, but it's not too clear.

    Setup is farsports carbon tubeless rims (no spoke holes in the rim bed), two layers Tesa tape, dt Swiss valves, cafelatex sealent, gravelking mud tubeless tyres.

    With sealant added was able to quickly get each wheel up to pressure and snap into place loudly. There was sealent leak during the process but quickly stopped.

    First wheel I did has now kept pressure going on 48h. No obvious issues.

    Second one is proving a pain though as it takes its time but it leaks, noticeably with a finger press in half an hour. Taking around 2h to go down fully.

    Seems too slow to show up a leak with soap and bubbles, at least I can't see anything.

    I'm sure it's from around the valve though, as if it's shifted at all I can get air/sealant to come out, at leat I could yesterday but now it seems fine.

    So, more tape? different valve? Rubber cement around the valve/tape? Keep pumping and shaking the living shit out of it (much shaking has already been done) ?

  • Taking a slightly different approach to the potential valve problem over lunch. Deflated, reseated the valve, pressed down on the inside of the valve head with ungodly force whilst tightenjng up the bevelled nut from the outside. Going off the notion that previously I couldn't tighten up the tiny nut with enough force alone on the outside with my weedy fingers, but having it pressed in further will help. Immediate difference, any attempt to wriggle the valve is met with firm resistance rather than a rasp of air. Gonna check back in an hour.

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Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Posted by Avatar for dancing james @dancing james

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