Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

You'll probably puncture when you don't have a 15mm spanner to hand if you opt for a solid axle.

Depending on hub, cones might be threaded for M10x1.0 axle instead of M9x1.0. May need some kind of step down axle job.
Example: Deore M510 rim brake hub has M9 axle but Deore M525 & XT M756 use M10.

Yeah it's an m756.

I think a 10mm axle will fit in the dropouts as I've used a track wheel in there previously.

Is a solid axle and nuts likely to be much (or any) improvement in terms of stiffness over a hollow axle and qr?

Negligible (<10% more for a solid axle) change in bending stiffness, but the compression preload on the axle provided by the QR actually makes the fatigue resistance of the hollow axle better.

I think a 10mm axle will fit in the dropouts as I've used a track wheel in there previously.

Track front hubs are 9mm. If a 10mm axle fits in your 9mm dropouts, they are fucked. The 756 axles are 10mm threads but necked down to 9mm at the dropout, so a 10mm solid axle should not fit your dropouts.

Yeah, I think I was getting confused by having an m756 hub set up as a rear bolt on fixed.

Rebuilt it with the hollow axle anyway. I thought I remembered reading something, possibly posted by you, that said there was something that made a qr axle superior to a solid one in some way.

possibly posted by you

If I said it, it's only because Jobst pointed it out to me 🙂

any recomendation for a bolt on front disc hub? 6 bolt, ideally 36h, ideally black.

Hope Pro4 are 6 bolt, available in TA, come in black and 36H.

Got a question about wheel truing/spoke tensions. Using some hope 20five disc wheels (32 spoke j bend 3x version), not had them long. Noticed a bit of a radial wobble in the back wheel, with two very very loose NDS spokes (wasn’t there when I first got the wheels, as far as I could tell). Could this be because of tubeless tyres compressing the rim? They were a bit of a pig to fit. Safe to just true the wheel with the tyre on, or will the rim end up exploding if/when I take the tyre off?

May be the tyre is the cause but the tension should drop evenly. Yes it should be tried but make sure the tension are even. Evening the tensions does not always make the rim round. Sometimes you have make it round the even the tensions out.

Easy question because I'm thick.
Sorry. This is all very basic very simple stuff.
Shimano manual gives me

O.L.D. (mm)
Axle length
Flange distance (mm)
Offset (mm)
P.C.D. Left / Right (mm)
Flange diameter (mm)

Edd asks for
left flange
Right flange
centre to left flange
centre to right flange
spoke hole

What matches what please?

O.L.D. (mm)

Axle length
Flange distance (mm) ②
Offset (mm) ③
P.C.D. Left / Right (mm) ①
Flange diameter (mm)

Edd asks for
left flange ①
Right flange ①
centre to left flange (½×②)±③
centre to right flange (½×②)±③

Ta very much.

Poor factory finish rather than tyre pressure.

Having a little panic that my spokes might be to long, spoke calc stated 289.3, but chosen spokes were only available in 288 or 290. Are the 290 ones going to be to long? Mavic xm319 rim if that makes a difference.
Quite a few posts in this thread say about rounding down but I've gone up 0.7mm.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Hello - looking to get some ideas on 32h tubular rims for indoor track use only. Found some 7600 high flange hubs for too good to say no on Merlin, and want to build them up. Currently a chunky sod who's making the original Giant wheels make unnerving twangs and creaks on the banking.

Currently got two thoughts - build them up into a nice racing set for when I get fitter/lighter, but aware that 32h deep carbon rims are harder to come by (plus I have some P-X 50mm ready to go, but the 20/24 spokes feels daft/brave/dangerous at my current weight)

Alternative would be to go the more traditional "training tubs" route - low profile alu, and build them into something strong I can use now, and then keep training on once I get to where I want to be fitness-wise - seen Araya's for a pretty penny, and something like the Ambrosio Nemesis perhaps?

Any thoughts or guidance as to which path makes most sense gratefully received.

BORG22T Kinlins for half the price

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collections/rims/products/kinlin-tb20-tubular-700c-rim-for-rim-brakes-or-specific-disc-brake-version

The recommendation is always to round down to avoid bottoming out the spoke threads.

Oooh, good shout. Ta.

Morning
I'm after a pair of wheels (fixed rear/Disc brake front) for road riding/commuting.
If I find a cheap source of mtb wheels, any problem in me buying two front disc wheels and just using a bolt on cog on the rear on (and 2 5mm washers)?
I'm after (in this order) cheap, light, matching.

The axle conversion isn't as simple as you make it sound, but in principle there's nothing wrong with using a 6-bolt front wheel as a fixed rear, see my 464 thread for example

So....
Edd is saying
front
290.1 *16
291.1 *16

rear
289.8*16
291.1*16

If I just bought 64 290 spokes that'd work right? A mm is neither here nor there with nipples + tolerances?

290mm will be fine. My rule of thumb is to round down for a difference of up to 1.4mm, and up to a maximum of 0.5mm.
So 291.4 I'd round down to 290, and 291.5 I'd round up to 292.

Looking for 26” tubeless with hook bead ATB rim, for tyres about 2”, that could take a touring bike load, would perhaps like asymm rear, symm front, don’t care whether they have braktrak or not...

Am I kidding myself that these rims even exist? Or even diff but similar rims re: strength/width for F and R?