Home DIY

i should have done that in the first place rather than trying to evenly space the brackets across the wall.

Ironically, your studs will be evenly spaced.... About 16" apart if I'm not mistaken (will be red numbering on your tape measure)

I had the same in my last place - stuck a scary yellow lable "WARNING DO NOT USE" on the day rate switch, as it could be a rather expensive thing to forget on.

Replacing a towel heater in the bathroom - in/out pipes are same dimension so I presume it is as simple as turn water off, unscrew wall mounts, unscrew main joints, drain into a bowl, pop on new one, fix, fill and off we go?

Unless the current pipework has isolation valves on the radiator you'll need to drain the system before you remove the rad.

Towel rails might be on the hot water circuit, not the heating circuit.

Or it might be plumbed in to the CH circuit, but before the zone valves.

Dot and dab doesn't have much gap, so if you're drilling about an inch-30mm in from the face of the wall and hitting something solid, it's that. If it's studwork it's likely to be 50mm or more. Although they might have used narrow battens.

Replacing a towel heater in the bathroom

My 2p is if you can don't put in a plumed in towel rail. See if you can get an electric one.

It really bugs me that we still need to put the heating on in spring / summer to dry towels. Can belive it's not more expensive over a year.

Edit
Just noticed TW's post. Which now really annoys me that ours is on the central heating system.

Replacing one already in so just like for like except 50cm taller.

Got it off ok, missing the connecting screws/valves. Need a 12mm hex key to get the old ones out so can reuse

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See if you can get an electric one.

Or a dual one for Summer use (if it's on the CH circuit)

Nest Third Generation Thermostat on sale at Amazon for £149.00.
Just purchased one. Are they amazing?
Stand by for stories of electrocution as I give installing one a go.

But that would require messing around with creating a spur etc in a bathroom, way above my level of skills. And no budget for it!

Electrocuted myself installing our Tado. Think it’s step 5 of the instructions.

Tado looks interesting, am I right in saying it's the only one that lets you control individual radiators through the app? Shame it looks like they have moved to a subscription model for V3 for some bits?

It's a nice to have - I've never used the electric part of ours.

There are others.

Tado works well though - although it's worth swapping out your valves if you don't have M30x1.5 fittings - with the best will in the world, plastic adapters are shit.

Wickes have them for under £10

Netatmo have them (and they're meant to be simple to install if replacing existing thermostatic valves) https://shop.netatmo.com/gbp_en/#energy

£50 a time (and that's with a black Friday discount) just seems too expensive though. My flat's not that big and I'd still be looking at £300-400 to do all the radiators. I just can't see it being worth it at the moment.

It was the geo fencing that sold it to me. Think it’s unique to tado. If I’m working at home it knows and keeps the heating on, if I’m not it’s off. Same thing at the weekend.

Managed to hack it to control our electric underfloor heating mat in the bathroom too.

My gf is very keen to create a large cupboard with this alcove (it’s the space over the staircase below)
My initial thoughts were to:
Remove the existing coving
Run some new coving straight across the space
Fit some doors beneath

Q1. Does this sound like the most sensible plan?
Q2. What’s the best way to try to remove the coving, causing minimal damage?

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Leave the existing coving in place. Just in case you or future owners want to remove the cupboard.
It won’t do any harm in there.

Best way to attach a weather bar to a door? Wood to wood, on the external face of a front door. Glue + nails? Or drill it for screws?

External face - to shed the rain...

Why the inside of the door?

Assuming you mean external - I've done it with screws from the inside and wood glue in the past and it worked just fine, but a bit ugly. The screws did however get covered by a draught strip so no big deal.

If I was to do it again, I'd probably attempt to do it with just glue.

Do we have any electricians on lfgss?

I have something I'd appreciate some advice on.

Our house doesn't have a gas line, so all of our heating is via electrical panel heaters, each wired to a fused switch.

I would like to make them wifi enabled by means of a wifi relay.

My question, first of all, is if this goes against any regulations?

Secondly, it looks like the biggest of them draws 10A, so if it was doable, would a 16A relay be sufficient?

Pro-Am decorators. Have I got my scheduling right?

1. Remove handles and shit
   
2. Sand down all woodwork and wipe clean
   
3. 1st coat ceiling, then walls (do clean walls and ceiling need any prep, e.g. wipe with sugar soap?)
   
4. 1st coat oil eggshell woodwork
   
5. 2nd coat ceiling
   
6. Light sand woodwork
   
7. 2nd coat walls
   
8. 2nd coat woodwork
   
9. Replace ironmongery
   
10. trauma-related alcohol binge
    
    

Also, we are eventually going to have the floor sanded and hard-wax-oiled. Will that fuck the decorating?

Fanks.

I need to replace our WC connector. These ones and these ones seem to be identical except that the latter are plain ended and designed to fit A "ring seal socket of 110mm soil or underground fittings", whereas the former "fits 4"/110mm inside diameter of PVC-U and cast iron soil pipe."

I think the one we have is plain-ended but I'm not clear what a ring seal socket is. Can they be replaced? Alternatively, can the ring seal socket be taken out and the connector changed to the other type if that's a better design?