Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Just got my wheel back from evans cycles and they have put scratches in the axle adapters when replacing the bearings - the guy said it was unavoidable because its a press fit hub and you need to clamp down on it - should I kick up a stink about this or is he right?

Some of them can be pretty hard to not damage when they're all installed dry and ridden though shit weather until the bearings are knackered before the caps are removed for the first time.

should I kick up a stink about this?

Would you have done any better if you'd DIY?

I usually find it's better to keep the damage where it can't be seen by knocking them off from the other side, but you can't do this with every hub and they can be pretty stuck sometimes. If they are properly stuck and likely to get properly fucked through removable attempts I'll usually contact the owner and say so and offer to source replacements if they're bothered.

But if you've been watching videos on youtube where they just pull them off by hand then that's a new wheel that they've just pulled apart to loosen anyway before filming, it's hardly ever that easy. If you've got any other similar, or are buying new wheels like that, pull them off and stick a little bit of grease round them.

I normally use a vice and take the precaution to use two pieces of wood to avoid damaging the soft aluminium caps

Isn't a big part of the point of giving such things to professionals that they have the experience, knowledge and tools to do a better job that your average DIY?

giving such things to professionals

That would have been a good idea, but instead he went to Sports Direct

Would I be ok to run 32 mm tyres (Tubeless) on a 18mm internal rim (DT Swiss r460) or can someone suggest something more suitable

TIA

ok to run 32 mm tyres (Tubeless) on a 18mm internal rim (DT Swiss r460)

Yes

Ta

Using kstoerz dimensions for
SLX m675 and DT swiss 460 622 (for the 460db version) and 3 cross for rear
slx hb-m665 and DT swiss 460 622 (for the 460db version) and 3 cross for front

I get
Rear 16 left = 290.6 (so round up to 291?)
Rear 16 Right = 274.8 (so up to 275?)

Front 16 left = 289.6(so round up to 290?)
Front 16 Right = 276.4 (so 276?)

is the rounding up / down correct?
the hubs i have are slx m675 but i can't find the front on kstoerz....

You tend not to be able to get odd number length spokes, so will need to round down to 290 and 274 on the rear I think.

I've not checked any of the actual maths.

slx m675

the specifications are here: http://productinfo.shimano.com/download/?path=pdfs/archive/2015-2016_Specifications_v024_en.pdf

I'm sure I'll have other problems, but do I want J or straight? I have a feeling it's J.

lovely. I wasn't sure what year they were released in.
Thanks. I'll put it all together again manually....

Question for the pros. This might be a bit it depends but I'll try anyway:

I want to re-dish an already built wheel 6mm to the NDS.

Assuming the wheel is as well built as can be, and that the re-dishing is done well, will re-dishing to this extent cause issues with spoke thread engagement?

My plan to do it would be to record the spoke tension across the build, then back off the tension on the DS a uniform amount, then tighten the NDS a uniform amount, trying to retain the original build tensions across the wheel. Is this the best way to go about it?

I'd go half a turn off one side half a turn on the other, probably side of a wheel at a time for ease, until it was in the right place. Dunno the maths to check how much thread you'll need but I'd probably have a look and if the side I'm tightening looks a little short and the other a little long just have a go, if they were both perfect I'm guessing it'll 2-3 turns for 6mm so might be worth trying anyway.

If the wheel is already dished and tension on the NDS is lower then when it gets close I'd maybe add more to it rather than take away from DS depending on how it all looks/feels/measures.

Hi All
I've measured hubs and rims, used an online spoke calculator and got the following figures:
Front:
L - 267.3mm
R - 268.8mm
Rear:
L -268.8mm
R- 267.2mm

Am I OK to do some rounding on these and just get 268mm spokes?

what's this 'domed head' shizzle on cycle basket as well? do I want that?

I'd round down, not up.
L - 267.3mm = 266
R - 268.8mm = 268
Rear:
L -268.8mm = 268
R- 267.2mm = 266

Re: domed head, as it says on the website: "It makes no practical difference."

Thanks Chris!

Ta!

Cannondale reckon it's doable
. Not sure if that's a good thing or not...

Is a solid axle and nuts likely to be much (or any) improvement in terms of stiffness over a hollow axle and qr?

I need to rebuild the XT front hub on my mtb with a new cone and bearings and I'm wondering if I should swap to a solid axle while I'm at it. I don't really mind the qr lever v 15mm spanner convenience thing.