Home DIY

Right. So. Cork. Bathroom.
I think it might happen.
What do I need to consider?
Tiles? Waterproofing?
On top of marine ply?

not putting a sleeve on the switch return.

I sharpied notes on both of the OG twin and earth cables.

Unfortunately I didn't have any brown tape/sleeve, so put a little off-cut of the white outer sleeve of the new cable over it with a sharpied note.

Figured if even though it's not technically correct it would be pretty clear to anyone opening it. And the new flex outer is thin enough not to be obstructive.

Just need to file the hole out a bit to fit the box into the celling and then fit the other light.

It makes sense as your ghetto fix is better than nothing. It's the kind of thing that serves as a warning to professional electricians that some diy work has taken place, that's not necessarily a bad thing, a lot of pre part p professional work falls a long way short of the current regulations.

Apologies for comprehension skills failure.
I've found my corded Fein works well with 'Antler Blades', who offer mixed sets on th'bay.

From what roca wrote, 'This effect is known in the industry as "pinging"; it usually occurs during the handling and installation period. It is caused by either a bump or a knock on the underside of the bath or over-tightening the legs underneath. On this occasion, due to where the damage is on the bath I would say this is due to over-tightening the leg or a knock on the lug on the underside of the bath. The damage incurred may not manifest itself immediately as it is largely dependent on the level of force of impact and over time the stress on the bath could crack the surface enamel, enough for water to ingress and over a period of time cause the rusting and subsequent lifting of the enamel.'

Cheers, seems to be what I'm looking for although the info seems a bit contradictory (claims to work with all Bosch ones but not starlock which is all the modern Bosch ones, guess I'll email them to clarify).

Well that is just shit.
I hope you figure out a solution that isn’t too costly.

Got a refund, with much argument from the supplier but not the maker. Roca said fine and have a refund or replacement.

Anyone know the rough price of having fencing replaced. 50ft of old falling down fencing replaced with concrete posts and gravel boards, and standard panels.

I'm weighing up going diy or not, what sort of cost am i looking at?

I just had that done in E10 and labour was £90 per concrete post. Materials ££ depends on your fencing preferences

Whereabouts are you based?

Brockley SE.

I've added up getting materials myself and am looking at around £500, but dont know if it's worth the effort doing myself

It would be about £300 a day for two people to do it for you.
50ft should be doable in 1 day.

We have a good guy in Brockley, PM me if you want his number

Very optimistic.
There's over 100kg of tanalised useless fence panels & wooden fence posts.
Those have to be disposed of at a licensed site. Local Council site charges £16 per 100kgs.

Get someone in to dig the post holes - that's always a ballache.

The rest is a piece of piss.

Yeah, the 8ft concrete fence posts practically walk themselves into the holes.

Fair point.
Hadn't factored waste disposal.

New posts in the same place(s) as the old?
When we did ours, a lot of time was needed to dig the old concrete out - the neighbours avoided this when they replaced their side by using an extra post and a half panel at each end - apparently staggering the posts and digging new holes was cheaper than the labour needed to put new posts in the old holes.

Edit - sorry, meant to reply to @dt

After some advice on a gate locks and thought someone else might have had a similar experience.

It's a decorative metal gate with a steel plate attached, surrounded by a brick wall/support on both sides.

Currently there's just a catch. The plan was a simple padlock bolt, but I've realized I need to be able to get in from the outside in the morning to put my bike cover away. I say need, but I could actually change my routine, but I'd rather not.

Requirements:

• bolt needs to travel >5cm to reach the brick. Ideally 8cm
  
• must be lockable from the outside
  
• ideally keyless catch on inside, but doesn't matter
  
• weather proof / resistant
  
• strength/security low importance as a motivated person could climb over
  
  

This website has a lot of helpful descriptions/terminology: http://www.woodworkersuk.co.uk/blog/tips-and-tricks/gate-locks-for-wooden-gates-guide/

...tho it's geared towards wooden gates.

It sounds like a long throw gate lock would be the thing, but a quick look shows them as being $$$$$$s

As the gate sits centrally in between the brick wall I planned to drill a hole for the bolt. Should I also put some sort of metal sleeve to prevent wear?

Cheers.

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Bolt a 2x2 upright to the wall and have the catch on that. 3 or 4 m10 anchors will keep it from being shifted by anything short of an elephant.

Those long throw bolts are great and worth the money. You can get them cheaper on eBay / amazon too.

Cheers.

I've actually managed to find a cheaper one with a push button: http://www.woodworkersuk.co.uk/shop/perry-single-locking-long-throw-locks.htm

My first hits were >$100!

Also came across this smart latch idea:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUiQZZ9I3co

Lights finally done.

(obvs hole needs filled)

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Hi, you can add an extra section of timber to the LHS of the existing architrave which is just slightly deeper than the deepest section of the architrave. This just makes it look like a wider architrave. I’ve done this on my new timber sash windows and it looks fine.

My winter project is to build a slightly raised wrap around deck around the back of our house. Main deck is 7.2m x 4.8m, with a walkway and smaller deck round the side, lots of holes to be digging.

We are using composite decking for the fact it is weatherproof and non-slip, so having to use oak fence posts to make sure that the frame lasts as long as the decking, did look into concrete posts, but given I am going to have to cut them down and drill them from two directions, not sure they would work.

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