Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

From Strada to Pista trick

For grease/oil?

Nitro ; )

28h X2 X3

Just can’t get my head round it, not doubting you, just it’s something I struggle to comprehend.

Anyway, got s bit of a ride in en route to work today and didn’t hear a peep out of the wheel. Put a half a turn on each nipple at work (Id usually go round a wheel after it’s first ride and tweak it up a bit) but no truing needed.

97% sure this is Kinlin XR300, got it for £5

1 Attachment

Looks pretty worn out.

It's not too worn. But going on a track hub anyway

Yup interlock is rebranded Kinlin

🙌 niobium gave it away

track the roadzba
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5wVZ-W3dNw

Track hubs for road use:

So before I go down the road of brute-forcing it with an extensive multi-day google spree, I thought I'd tap into the community knowledge here. Does someone either have a link to a good resource, or a quick and dirty guide to which hubs I should be interested in / looking out for in the classifieds etc.? Not looking for a dissertation on the topic, but just a few sentences could already help. Thanks a lot!

Relevant info:

• Intended use: mostly spring / summer riding, but not just fair-weather riding (so... integrated bearings?). I might use them for commuting, but definitely not through snow, salt and ice.
  
• I haven't decided on rims yet, but it might end up being something mildly aero - probably less relevant for the hubs though?
  
• Ideally, I'd want them to be black, but I could deal with a silver / chrome look too (for example the DA 7600s would be fine)
  
• I'd like to pay ~£150 max ideally, but definitely <£200 for the set
  
• I don't need a freewheel side, I only ride fixed - but I don't mind if the option is there either.
  
  

From a quick search so far, everyone goes on and on and on about Phil Wood (too expensive for me though), and Dura Ace 7600s come up time and again too. Is there some 'conventional wisdom' on this, that people have generally agreed upon?

If you're having aero rims, how many spokes are you planning to build the wheels with? Dura Ace are only available in 32h and 36h as far as I know. Cheaper options would be Novatec or Formula track hubs (I've used Novatecs - they're basic but they work perfectly well), or Zeniths (similar to the Novatec and Formula hubs but slightly better sealed).

As for which is best, I don't think there's anything on this forum which is generally agreed upon. Except, perhaps, that Rod Liddle is a cunt.

Rod Liddle is a cunt

From what I gathered, that is mostly undisputed.

Regarding spoke counts, there's two factors:

• I'm a heavy rider --> up the spokes count
  
• I'm currently eyeing up Light Bicycle's carbon rims, and according to Roger Musson's wheel-building book that everyone loves, carbon rims can deal with fewer spokes --> reduce the spokes count
  
  

So all in all, I'm thinking 32h is probably fine, which, as far as I can see, looks like the most common number anyway. Do you have any strong opinions on that?

In any case, thanks for your answer :)

Track hubs for road use

Novatec. KT & Formula are fine too, Novatec are just easier to find. Use 32 spokes if you don't care about going fast, but 20F and 24R is enough with deep(ish) carbon rims unless you're well over 100kg or intend to load the bike up with luggage. Strictly speaking, the #tester_approved road fixed solution is a 15×100 or 15×110 (depending on what chainline you want) 6-bolt MTB hub.

unless you're well over 100kg

How about just over? ;)

Also, in this case you'd say paying more for DAs for example is not worth it? I see a pair being sold for £125 at the moment, for example, which seems like a decent deal for what it is.

How about just over? ;)

Just over is fine. I've been exposing 20/24 (and even 16/20) to my 105kg-110kg on both paved and unpaved roads for ages with no problems and without even having the benefit of deep rims

in this case you'd say paying more for DAs for example is not worth it?

In this case, DA is a terrible idea. They're very pretty, but they are optimised for low rolling resistance in dry conditions, so Shimano quite rightly make them with no sealing against liquid ingress, which makes them useless for all weather outdoor use.

That make a lot of sense, thanks! I might look into 24-spoke hubs then. You seem to generally put fewer spokes on the front wheel, which is not uncommon in general, I think - Roger Musson in his book on the other hand suggests using the same number of spokes on both, what is your view on that?

They're very pretty

That they definitely are!

Roger Musson in his book on the other hand suggests using the same number of spokes on both, what is your view on that?

I'd like to know what justification he offers for that advice.

They're very pretty

according to Roger Musson's wheel-building book that everyone loves

It's a children's book, and children seem to love it. When I was a boy, we only had Jobst.

Roger Musson in his book on the other hand suggests using the same number of spokes on both, what is your view on that?

Schneider disagrees. He says if you've got the same spoke count front and rear you either have too many spokes on the front or too few on the rear. Given that most of your weight is on the rear wheel that makes sense to me.

It's a children's book, and children seem to love it. When I was a boy, we only had Jobst.

Not entirely sure what this is supposed to mean. It looks like an exceedingly useful and informative book to me though.

an exceedingly useful and informative book

As is Where did I come from?

I find Musson superficial and patronising, but that's probably because I'm old and I started building wheels about the same time as he did, if not earlier. If you were born in the 21st century and Musson is the first wheel building book you read, you're less likely to notice that than if you had read Jobst more than thirty years ago. Jobst is a better engineer, a better writer, and, if the works are the measure of the man, a better person.

Disc brakes do place more braking loads on spokes than rim brakes can. You can work out what the difference is by taking the ratio of the rim diameter to the rotor diameter.

Force(rim) x d(rim) =force(rotor) *d(rotor)

So for a 160mm rotor a disc brake thd braking torque goes through the hub fglsnge. Braking forces on spokes are therefore 10 times as much load on the spokes as a rim brake can at the limit of tyre adhesion.

And all the other braking forces required to turn kinetic energy into heat get magically turned into pixie dust? The mechanical advantage of the braking system varies between disc and rim brakes. The kinetic energy which needs to be transferred into heat does not. Unless your rims are connected to your hubs via magic pixie dust or unicorn hair, all that energy transfer has to take place via the spokes.