Varonha frame works repair

Thanks for the question, were possible you must seal the tubes like the fork blades , seat stays ,
I worked for Holdsworth for 9 years, Chas Roberts for 28 years,and have never, replaced seat stays because of rust, on these two British trusted frame bulders.
But have replaced stays on 45year old Colnago frames , with unfilled air holes ,
I same type of repair over and over .
I would be interested to hear what other frame build on this forum think

What an odd place to get corrosion ? Has something been clamped to the stays?

Is your doggo a shiba inu? Top hound anyway. That corrosion is a mystery.

Emailed me that he’s never seen anything like it and that it will cost me £150 per seat stay. Plus i’d have to send it up to him etc...

Yes did think - wrong answer. I was thinking temperature change wherever you keep it leads to condensation in the frame. Particularly if it dips below freezing then warms up. Amazing repair.

Thanks for replying. Finding this really interesting.

What would you do on a lugged frame? The hole at the bottom bracket end of the chain stays would be too large to close up no?

And would you suggest closing up air holes on frames built with them? Actually, I guess it’s pointless dealing with the air hole at the dropout when there are holes between seatstays and the seattube and these would be impossible to access to seal on a built frame.

Love my Shiba, she’s always too curious and getting involed in anything i do :)..

Very interesting you saying that the change in temp could be a issue as i keep the bike indoor but was ridding it quite a bit over the winter in freezing cold. Not sure it could do so much damage so quickly?...

On a lugged bottom bracket it is a good idea to drill a hole underneath, water can't stay in the chain stays as it will drian away .
But on a luggless bottom bracket the water or mousture at the end of the tubes will rust if you don't fill the air holes or dill them big enough for the water to drian away .
Another problem is water baths, to get the flux off , after brazing,! The best way is to shot blast the flux off , !

Don't know about seat stay thickness but something like Reynolds 853 is a 0.6mm wall thickness according to the gunf. Reynolds recommends 725 stays and 853 main tubes.
Linky

Here are some photos of a Chas Roberts 953 stainless steel frame that I have been doing a repairs on. It needed a new chain stay and top tube.

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More photos of removed top tube

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Here the tube replaced ,all tubes are silver soldiered

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Here is the finished frame

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Amazing work as always Winston! Pardon if this is a silly question.. Out of interest, how do you get the new top tube in, if the old one is cut out? Is it a case of just prying open the frame a bit?

In this case silver melts very easily, a bit more difficult with a brazed frame ,but this is a 953
Stainless so is silver soldiered, after the tubes are out miter the new tube , put one end the seat tube lug ,then spring the frame till the tube fits in to the head tube.

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@skalliwag

Would you consider helping keep a nice-ish touring frame up to date by adding a brace & disc tab?

Any opinions gratefully recieved.

Yes as long as the seat stays are strong enough to take a disc brake , ring me on 07840672646
Or email winston.vaz@talktalk.net ........ Varonha framework.co.uk

Which bike would that be?

OK thanks I’ll be in touch. Stays will be fine I’m sure.

Waitandsee.pie

You no fun Ben I want to know!

Been to see @skalliwag today. Lovely fellow.

@skalliwag at work on a repair earlier today. What a skillful gent.

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Saw someone doing a wobbly trackstand on a Varonha yesterday. Nice looking bikes!