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@Cycliste and I go in early November, so right at the end of the season. Don't think we've ever seen a tourist bus. Just a few hire cars. And wobbly slow German bikers on Harleys and BMW GSs, of course.
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You were right about the buses, we got stuck behind on the way down and they were stopping for photos and stuff. And they pass you quite closely on the way up. And the town was absolutely full of OAPs. Never mind, still "enjoyable"
We couldn't have got there before 11 though, it would have required a very early start and we got stopped several times for quite a while due to some race anyway. Never mind!
If anyone cares about my Ryanair experience the bike arrived okay. I wrapped it in a spare duvet (now greasy) inside the bike bag in the end. Will be up Sa Calobra some time in the next few days hopefully!